calling electrical guru's Voltage Questions Options

[Ferg]

The gauge in my car reads almost 2 full volts low, compared to the battery. I have tested the battery it is 12.5 with car off. With car running at idle it is 12.8 ish, and at 2k rpm and above it is at 13.8. The idiot light on the dash does stay on when first started, but goes off as soon as I blip the throttle.
So when idling my dash gauge reads 10.5ish and goes to 12ish as soon as gas is applied. While driving the dash gauge stays around 12 unless headlights are on then drops back to 10. But if I check the battery with headlights on and at 2k rpm it is still at 13.8 and there is no volt drop when headlights are turned on and off. So my question is where do I go from Here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
Car is a 2.7 conversion if it matters, and battery is yellow top altima.
Ferg.

[tryan]

you can adjust the mechanical regs, but getting the light to go away at idle would require more field current. ie. clean the #9 fuse routine.

on the 4's, checking the ground from the relay board to the alt would be the best start if the regulator points look okay. do the 6's have the same board? the pencil wiring diagram for the 6's on pelican sucks. i have a hard time focusing/reading that puppy.

to cure the dash light at idle woes, logic tells me that adding a ballast and a diode to the hot feed at the idiot light at the dash. (mallory makes an inline ballast wire.) this will keep the light off until it drops to 9 volts.