2.0L stock rebuild to 1974 spec Options

[tshih914]

Finally started to assemble 2.0L
Hi All,

Just finished removing the old main bearings and installed new ARP rod bolts and rod bearings onto the crankshaft of the 1975 2.0L engine being rebuilt from complete strip down and cleaning.

Question 1. instructions say torque bolts with assembly lube 3X at 40ft-lbs. Measure stretch at 0.048-0.052". I didn't notice any stretch remained at 6.00cm before and after torqueing. Can one over-torque these ARP bolts?

Question 2. I have new Euro 2.0 pistons and cylinders to install and intend to weigh each piston/rings and balance them to the rods (which weigh 788.2 gm, 788.3gm, 789.4gm and 787.7gm).
How would the expert builder match the piston weights to these rods? Heaviest pistons to lightest rods so all combinations are as equal along the crank as possible?

Question 3. Forgot to make a checklist for what items needed to go back into case before sealing halves together with locktite 574.
should I disturb the original case plugs or leave them alone?

I remember to insert new cam with new standard cam bearings, oil sump baffle, time the cam to crank, new main bearings, what else am I forgetting?

Just weighed the pistons and wrist pins and their weights are 723.10grams, 723.33 gm, 723.84 gm, and 722.96gm. Pretty close grouping (I'm impressed by Mahle for having such tight tolerances)!.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

[Jake Raby]

Do you have my video?? It;ll get the engine together 100% easier than any book step by step.

What are the weights of all your rods/ pistons??

If the rotating assembly wasn't dynamically balanced don't worry too much about the rods/pistons being perfect because there is a very good chance that it won't matter very much- the dynamic assemblies are generally horrid to balance, especially if you have a new pressure plate.

Loctite 574 is not the best case sealant. It hardens after a few thousand miles and leaks will occur. I use Curil K2 for sealing case halves and it remains flexible for years with no leaks.

As for the case plugs:
You are playing Russian Roulette if they are not removed! If you saw the gunk I find behind those plugs it would blow your mind, and this is all gunk that can't be cleaned without the plugs being removed.

Also these days it's not uncommon to start removing a plug and have it spin under the drill bit- a quick flip of the case lets the plug fall out with literally zero effort...... Now think about a nice fresh engine with tight clearances and hefty oil pressure and think of the nightmares that happen when that plug pops out and the oil pumps out of the case- ALWAYS drill and tap the galley plugs! ( i sale a galley plug kit and even the tools to do the job)

Also, were your rods rebuilt with the ARP bolts installed and torqued??? If they were not you cannot install them as you will alter the dimension of the big end of the rod and you will have imminent rod bearing failure. It's imperative that when changing rod bolts the new bolts are installed, and torqued prior to finish honng of the big end- even if its a 100% stock engine, there are zero exceptions to this rule!

It's at least once monthly that I get a call from someone who has spun a rod bearing after installing the ARP bolts without proper sizing of the rod. One guy spent 7K bucks in parts redoing the engine FOUR times before he finally listened to me and had the rods resized.