2.0L stock rebuild to 1974 spec Options

[tshih914]

Finally started to assemble 2.0L
Hi All,

Just finished removing the old main bearings and installed new ARP rod bolts and rod bearings onto the crankshaft of the 1975 2.0L engine being rebuilt from complete strip down and cleaning.

Question 1. instructions say torque bolts with assembly lube 3X at 40ft-lbs. Measure stretch at 0.048-0.052". I didn't notice any stretch remained at 6.00cm before and after torqueing. Can one over-torque these ARP bolts?

Question 2. I have new Euro 2.0 pistons and cylinders to install and intend to weigh each piston/rings and balance them to the rods (which weigh 788.2 gm, 788.3gm, 789.4gm and 787.7gm).
How would the expert builder match the piston weights to these rods? Heaviest pistons to lightest rods so all combinations are as equal along the crank as possible?

Question 3. Forgot to make a checklist for what items needed to go back into case before sealing halves together with locktite 574.
should I disturb the original case plugs or leave them alone?

I remember to insert new cam with new standard cam bearings, oil sump baffle, time the cam to crank, new main bearings, what else am I forgetting?

Just weighed the pistons and wrist pins and their weights are 723.10grams, 723.33 gm, 723.84 gm, and 722.96gm. Pretty close grouping (I'm impressed by Mahle for having such tight tolerances)!.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

[Jake Raby]

All the items can be found on my store www.type4store.com- I sell the Curil and the video there as well as the galley plug kit and about 1,00 more TIV engine parts.

The resizing of the rods is done by a machinist and requires a special machine and hone to ensure the work is done straight and true.

During resizing the mating surfaces of the cap are ground down for a new, true surface. This process then ovals out the bore of the big end of the rod, which requires that bore to be honed to a known dimension within a range of tolerances that the machinist will be responsible for. When the honing is done the rod cap must be installed with the bolts you will use as this dictates the "crush" the bearing will see and the overall size of the rod bore which is crucial to proper bearing/journal running clearances.

This cannot be done with plastigage, or even checked with plastigage. It requires precision measuring devices.

Now, you should ALWAYS rebuild the connecting rods at rebuild to ensure they are straight and the small end bushings are good to go as they do wear.

You need to stop in your tracks, find a machinist and grab my video, before you cost yourself some extra money....