Lotta fun with Megasquirt, Autotune, tunes while you drive Options

[DNHunt]

I downloaded a newer version of Megasquirt with autotune. It uses a wideband O2 meter to adjust the air fuel mixture to a target while you drive. The targets vary according to RPM and manifold vacuum. I have a high of 14 at cruise and a low of 12.6 at WOT. Megasquit keeps adjusting until the amount of fuel gives the desired voltage from the O2 meter. It speeds up tuning a ton. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

It's cool to see it changing without any key strokes on the computer. There are a couple things to consider (there always are). Tuning is only as good as the O2 meter and the air fuel mixture is just a number pulled out of the air. It will not tune the ignition side of the ECU. So, when I get everything sorted out and the engine well broken in it still goes on a dyno.

Dave

[lapuwali]

Actually, you probably don't want to use MSII just yet. It's real bleeding edge, still. The MS1 extra code is actually more advanced and more stable at this time, simply because it's been around longer.

MS1v3 with extra code and EDIS is the most widely used and most stable setup right now, closely followed by MS with a distributor and simple advance control from MS. These are more than adequate.

Lots of Chevy guys use the HEI distributor, which is essentially a wheel mounted in the distributor. Some use the HEI ignition controller (which can provide a tach signal for MS), but a few may also use the wheel decoder code, as well. There are quite a few OEM distributors that have a Hall effect or VR sensor wheel in the distributor, in fact. On a Type 4, you can use a Pertronix/Compufire/Crane system to trigger the MS using a locked 009 (no advance curve problems, as MS controls the advance), or a Mallory Unilite if you happen to have one already.

If you want to try your hand at some homebrew trigger, you can get Hall Effect or VR distributor sensors from GM/Nissan/Mazda/etc distributors, and try to rig something up.

My plan of attack this summer on my MS system on my Type 4 will be to go fuel only first, then either use the Unilite I have on the shelf as the trigger, or one of the many 009s I have lying around with a VR trigger and a 4 tooth wheel. I have little interest in trying DIS ignition right now, and mounting a crank wheel is just too much trouble. My goals are drivability and economy, not all-out power.