Megasquirt Progress, Main Board complete Options

[yarin]

Tonight I have completed building the main board for my MS II V.3.0 system. Thanks to those that have helped out. Once i'm all finished I will definitely post a complete "How To MegaSquirt a 914" website with pics and step by step. So far i'm still at the desk level. I've got 2.0 injection parts on the way.

I'll be using the following:

stock injectors
GM air temp sensor
stock fuel pump
summit racing manifold referenced fuel pressure regulator
stock injectors (i think 2.0s are on the way)
stock plenum / runners
stock CHT
MS Relay Board
Innovative WB02
High Current ignition driver
Stock dizzy with pertronix (hall sensor)
Stock Bosch Blue Coil
PWM Low impedence injector driver (no resistors)
Stock Cold start Valve (plan so far)
Stock throttle body with some junkyard TPS

Here is a pic of my board, took me a few hours a night every night this week. I took my time, double checked everything. So far so good!

I don't expect to have the system in the car for at least another month. I'm converting from carbs so I want to install steel fuel lines and clean some stuff up.

I'll be sure to post progress in the forums. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

[yarin]

James,

Thanks for you feedback. I will run the injectors at 29psi. However the fuel pressure regulator sold by summit claims 36-45Psi. Someone on her said their regulator is a modified stock D-jet regulator. I would hope that I can turn it down to 29psi. I guess time will tell. It's pretty difficult finding a manifold referenced adjustable fuel pressure regulator for the 29psi range for under $200. Do you think I will be ok?

I'm looking at Digikey p/n HM131-ND for the plastic enclosure for the relay board along with the clear lid 1591EC-ND. It's not water tight, but water resistant. I will secure some form of hood over the cable entry/exit holes to defect any water that may happen to enter the area. I was also planning on using rubber mounts to dampen road vibrations.

I was afriad that the solder cup connections would become unreliable due to stress and vibration. Crimp is the way to go, assuming you have proper tooling. Pliers and a screwdrivers will yield a less reliable solution than a solder-cup connection IMO.

Can you explain your EMF solution? Are you avoiding grounding the metal case? Is this the way to go?

Thanks for the info!