painting advice needed, original 914-6, doing metalic paint, can it be done? Options

[highways]

So I have a few questions... I'm restoring a 914-6 and want to cross all the "t's" and dot all the "i's". The body is stripped down to bear metal and bodywork is all straight. I want to do the spray job myself- and I'm totally confident in being able to do a good single coat job. But the original factory color on this 6 was a metalic color. Now I doubt that the exact paint type is still available (this was in the early days of metalic paint schemes) but I'm sure there's a modern three coat metalic color that's as close as it's ever going to be. So here are my questions:

1. Just how much more difficult is it to do a three coat metalic paint job compared to a normal paint job?

2. Is it possible for an skilled ametuer with a bit of practice (say on lots of large scrap sheet metal) to build enough proficiency for the project? If that ametuer can already do a good normal paint job...

3. The body will be painted inside and out... trunks, door jams, under bumpers, everywhere. Like I said ther car is pure bare metal currently. My concern is some of the smaller tighter radius concave and convex areas. How difficult is it to sufficiently paint these smaller radius areas like they did at the factory without drips and overspray?

4. How much is obsessive wet-sanding a determining factor in the final result of metalic jobs? I'm great at wet sanding- just concerned that professionally it's not part of the final process for metalic, or is it? Currently I understand that the skill with which the final clear coat is applied is the determining, and final quality of 'shine' factor.

5. How is the second coat (the metalic flake coat) applied evenly? Does it require special spray guns?

6. I'm going to build my own spray booth... do I need to consider special ventilation to prevent dried over spray from re-settling on the applied coat- creating roughness? Or can the booth be sealed and overspray in the air not be a concern to the car. (Me, the spray gun operator plans on wearing a full suit with compressed air pumped in to create a 'positive pressure' suit for respratory safety). Also- the booth will have to be electrical spark free (no light switches, cell phones, ect.) because I understand they can become explosive- filled with paint fumes. Is that scary fact alone a need for industrial type ventilation? Is it legal? Is static electricity a danger and how is it handled? I could imagine a synthetic paint suit making some static... hmmm.

7. Where can I find detailed information/DVD courses on do it yourself 3 coat metalic painting?

8. Are all three coats done in immediate succession, while paint is tacky or wet, or does the time frame not matter?

9. Am I insane for even considering doing this metalic 3 coat myself? I just can't afford a $5000 paint job... and I do trust myself to do a great non-metalic job... but I want to keep this car 100% original right down to the paint code number. I figure practice, and go for it! Talk me out of it, or forever hold your peace.

10. Considering that the car is completely bare metal- I'm curious about the possibility of doing exstensive POR-15(?) rust prevention painting pre everything else. Maybe even so far as essentially making the entire primer coat a POR-15 coat (914-6 timecapsule for the next 100 years!). Is this insane? A good or bad idea? I don't have experience using POR...

11. Any other advice, criticisms or dire warnings? Thanks in advance!

[scotty b]

Metallics are a 2 stage paiont. 3 stage is a pearl. That said, besat way to judge your gun setup is to hold your thumb and pinky as far apart as you can and set you fan pattern to be close to that width at a distance of 4-6 inches. HVLP gun should have about 35 psi going into the gun, overlap EXACTLY 50% on each pass or you will get striping. 1.3 or 1.4 tip in the gun is fine, those are also good for your clear. If you use the same gun for the base and clear CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN before you clear. Don't skimp on the gun or the materials. Cheap paints require more coats and are harder to fix problems if they occur, and cheap guns aren't as accurate, and are made of inferior quality parts. Sounds like with the quality job you want you would be better off with a pro. Gun = $400, Paint = 1500, other materials (masking paper,tape,degreaser,facility)=$200-????? Prep werk is the most important part, if the car isn't CLEAN your paint can turn out horrible, dust, sanding scratches, any kind of chemical or water left on the car will ruin an otherwise nice job.