my suspension upgrade report, 22mm Ts, 180 springs, Koni yellers |
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my suspension upgrade report, 22mm Ts, 180 springs, Koni yellers |
sean_v8_914 |
Feb 16 2006, 10:53 AM
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#1
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Chingon 601 Group: Members Posts: 4,011 Joined: 1-February 05 From: San Diego Member No.: 3,541 |
I had some springs for sale. many members asked me about why I was selling them and more imprtantly what effect did it have on teh cars handling and street drivability
the 180 or 200s require bigger torsion bars to work well. I run 22mm with a stock sway bar and Falkin Azinis 205 50 15 I ran the 180 on the track but never tested the 200s on teh track. the car is neutral and rotates well with slight throttle modulation. on teh street it is OK but a very sharp difference in ride quality. on teh street the bumps get much less travel out of the suspension so it can be a bit jaring on some roads (lyons Valley rd) on teh track the suspension responds MUCH quicker. it also loads up alot more energy so if you jerk it around on teh street you better know about car balance. the good news is that only in teh most extreme evasive manuver wold you experience this and if you do upset teh cars balance, it recovers instantly . why did I sell them? I am moving to a 2.5 inch ID spring that is 8 inches long. they fit tighter against teh shock and I am also upgrading to threaded perches to enable proper corner balancing and ride height adjustability. teh smaller spring should track more vertically true under compression also I have a bitmap of teh Weltmeister suspension recomendation chart. I need someone here to convert it to a format that I can post it here |
r_towle |
Feb 17 2006, 10:55 AM
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#2
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,588 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I have the 180m rears, 23mm TB and 21MM sway bar
I did push at first... I had the car corner balanced...it help... I eventually dropped the rear two notches on the bills in the rear and it made all the difference in the world... I think AA and I have "discussed" this before... I found if you measure from the top of rim to bottm on fender lip....set the front a 1/4 to 3/8 higher than the read...it still seems to have a true rake to the front...but that is where I measure from... It stopped the push.... It was all about putting more wieght on the rear to begin with that made the difference....It took me several years of different settings to get it to stick no matter what....that was the goal.. And the Welt swy on front is on the arm about 1.25 inches showing...thats not full soft..I kept changing that slowly...1/4 inch at a time, both sides the same...I started at full soft.. I have no rear bar. I traded cars with a guy. My setup 23mm TB, 22 mm sway 180lbs rear welts. Bilstiens all the way around poly bushings He could not get me car to let go. His car. front is tock rear 180 lbs rear sway front sway His rear end was like driving on snow or ice...I could not keep it from sliding...it was cool, a different driving style...but not what I am used to. Rich |
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