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wbergtho |
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,314 Joined: 28-April 03 From: Roberts, WI Member No.: 623 ![]() |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) My KEP 240mm Stage 1 pressure plate is not releasing and I've checked all the obvious things like a broken spot weld on the Boden tube (firewall & attachment by shifter), pedal box bushings, clevis, clutch cable,...etc. All the these items are great. I watched the Boden tube while actuating the clutch and it is still. The clutch won't release enough to allow gear selection while the engine is running. With the engine off, I can select all gears no problem (brand new gearbox). The car ran well and the clutch seemed to function properly for about 200 miles...then it quit releasing all the way...and found myself double clutching & matching revs to get it home. I then tightened the cable thinking it must have stretched under the strain of the KEP pressure plate..and it still won't release. I then used the "cave man" approach to determine whether the pressure plate will release manually or not. I disconnected the clutch cable @ the trans and slid a long pipe over the lever arm and cranked it over to it's maximum travel...had a friend hold it there while I got in the car (up on stands)...I fired it up and checked to see if it was released entirely and it was. It shifted into all gears properly with engine running. My question is...WHY can't I get enough clutch cable travel to actuate the pressure plate entirely...when it WAS working flawlessly for 200+ miles??? I'm starting to think that there may be something wrong in the disc, or pressure plate broken or cracked diaphram, or maybe the pilot bearing has failed causing the main shaft to spin with the engine? I won't be sure until I take everything apart and inspect these parts. Can anyone think of any thing else I may be overlooking? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif)
Thanks, Bill |
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byndbad914 |
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shoehorn and some butter - it fits ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,547 Joined: 23-January 06 From: Broomfield, CO Member No.: 5,463 Region Association: None ![]() |
project is moving along slow but sure. I don't have a cable - I went straight to hydraulic. It is possible to tune pedal effort a bit with that setup - but it requires using a new master each trial to do it (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif) The smaller the master, the easier it is to push the pedal, but the more pedal travel it takes to get the same displacment at the slave cylinder. I used the recommended .750" master, but I do have .700" and .625" for the brakes (.7 front .625 rear), so I am thinking that once the pedals are mounted in the car (hopefully in a couple of weeks) I want to try the setup with the .7 and .625 and see how much easier v. how much further I have to depress the pedal to get engagment. Right now, I had a short pedal throw which is nice for racing, but very tough to modulate say around the pits - kinda like an on/off switch, so the smaller master may be nice. Here is a shot of the Tilton triple pedal assembly I have. Now it comes painted all black which is way nicer looking - of course, that came out about 4 months after I got mine, rat bastards. You will have about a grand in this thing though after all the MCs and such and will need to cut and make a pedal box (look on this forum right now, Terrence posted a question "is the center tunnel structural" or to that effect - see what I mean). As for which clutch I have, it is the stage 1 as well - same story, I have 438 lb-ft torque, so supposed to be fine, but looking at my disk (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/confused24.gif) Attached image(s) ![]() |
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