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> Another starting problem, This one is different from the rest, I promise.
Matt Meyer
post Jun 12 2006, 09:56 AM
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You guys seem to know everything but I haven’t seen this one yet.

To make a long story short. The problem is almost certainly with the lock cylinder part of ignition. I can start the car by turning the electrical portion of the ignition switch with a screwdriver (steering column torn apart). But with the key (lock cylinder and electrical switch put back together) no start. Assembled, the ignition will turn to on (dash lights up, fuel pump primes) and turns another approx. ?¼? turn, makes a click (relay, not starter solenoid or relay) but no start. I’m not sure if the key needs to turn just a little farther (it feels like it is turning all the way) or if the lock cylinder is too sloppy to turn the switch that last little bit.

While trying to figure out a fix last night I thought I observed that the bottom of the ignition switch keyway is spring loaded. It seemed that if the bottom of the keyway was not pushed in the switch would not turn the last 1/8th (no start?). Can someone confirm this? The key when inserted into the ignition does push the lock cylinder key down a small bit. Could my worn non original key just be a tad too short with wear? Maybe the lock cylinder just needs to be in another 1/8” but I don’t see how.

More trouble shooting tonight but any help would be appreciated.

Also, my 914 is a 75 and I don't think the Pelican tech artical is going to help me get the lock cylinder out.
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Matt Meyer
post Jun 13 2006, 09:28 AM
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I have a brand new (electrical) switch. Both the old and new electrical switch work with a screw driver. Neither work with the lock cylinder.

My 914 is a 75 and I do not see how the cylinder comes out. I messed with it last night but you can not see what is going on inside where the cylinder and switch mate so all I could do is put them togather and hope I got a different outcome. Unless someone can tell me how I might be putting them togather wrong.

Another note. I did this last winter also. But when I tested the switch it looked good. So I put it all back togather and it worked for 6 months.

I think I am going to try to buy that whole collar from a 75 or 76 that is being parted. If I can not find that for a reasonable price, a starter button from JEGs or Summit is only $10. I'll either make a "pig tail" to run a splice from or two new wires to the starter so I don't have to hack up the wiring harness.

And thanks, now would be the time to replace the steering column bushing.
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