Another starting problem, This one is different from the rest, I promise. Options

[Matt Meyer]

You guys seem to know everything but I haven’t seen this one yet.

To make a long story short. The problem is almost certainly with the lock cylinder part of ignition. I can start the car by turning the electrical portion of the ignition switch with a screwdriver (steering column torn apart). But with the key (lock cylinder and electrical switch put back together) no start. Assembled, the ignition will turn to on (dash lights up, fuel pump primes) and turns another approx. ?¼? turn, makes a click (relay, not starter solenoid or relay) but no start. I’m not sure if the key needs to turn just a little farther (it feels like it is turning all the way) or if the lock cylinder is too sloppy to turn the switch that last little bit.

While trying to figure out a fix last night I thought I observed that the bottom of the ignition switch keyway is spring loaded. It seemed that if the bottom of the keyway was not pushed in the switch would not turn the last 1/8th (no start?). Can someone confirm this? The key when inserted into the ignition does push the lock cylinder key down a small bit. Could my worn non original key just be a tad too short with wear? Maybe the lock cylinder just needs to be in another 1/8” but I don’t see how.

More trouble shooting tonight but any help would be appreciated.

Also, my 914 is a 75 and I don't think the Pelican tech artical is going to help me get the lock cylinder out.

[jk76.914]

I have a '76, and it had the same symptom. I ended up removing the collar around the steering column to get the switch and lock cylinder out.

I think it came off as follows- Once the steering wheel is off, you can remove the turnsignal and washer switch. I believe there are 4 long screws holding them down. They then pull towards you and out. They unplug from the harness at the base of the column as you pull.

Then, there's this one bolt- it is accessible from below the column, down near the dash. The casting that you're trying to remove is cut on one side, kind of like a battery cable clamp (bad example, but the best I can come up with) and this bolt closes that cut to clamp the casting around the column, just like the bolt on the battery cable clamp. Once this bolt is removed, you can rock the casting to loosen it, or insert a big flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot to open it up a bit- being careful so you don't break the casting.

Then is should slide right off. Unless I've forgotten something. If it doesn't slide right off, look around for another fastener, but I can't think of one..... Is there a snap ring on the steering shaft?

While I had mine off, I replaced the upper plastic bushing with a steel one I got at Performance Products. I had to modify the new one to get it to fit, so I probably put it in wrong, but it works fine. Also, I went ahead and separated the upper U-joint, pulled the column, and cleaned and repacked the ball bearings. I also installed an electric switch in the wiper/washer switch for an electric washer pump....

When it goes back together, you should hold off on tightening that one clamping bolt until everything is lined up, and the gap between the shell and the steering wheel looks right, and the cancelling cam is working.

I think it took maybe two evenings, and I was feeling my way as I went. None of my manuals showed this version.

Good luck. I wish I had some pictures.

Jim