Rear brake caliper rebuild Question, Can't figure out exactly how to tear down Options

[Mikey914]

Well I've got all of the easy part done. Actually the P/O tried to rebuild and the leak appears to be from the e brake actuator. How do I get this thing apart? the only thing left to do is remove the plug, but I didn't want to do it unless I have to.

The piston in this side is stuck in, I tried to pry lightly, but didn't want to put too much pressure on it incase there's something I might break.

If anyone has any reference material the Haynes manual glosses right over this.

Any help would be apreciated

[Eric_Shea]

Ok - or is this even more confusing??

You're confusing me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

The seal on the e-brake arm can go bad. They come in a seperate kit that's $49.00 (read: more than a good core is worth). That kit includes a 25mm side (welch) plug as well.

The piston in this side is stuck in, I tried to pry lightly, but didn't want to put too much pressure on it incase there's something I might break.

It's probably not stuck. It is on a threaded adjuster. The picture you show in your first post shows a missing rear adjuster cover and you're probably missing an inner adjuster gear. Look at the back of the caliper. Look down the hole. Is there a 4mm (not 5mm) adjuster gear down there? It should slide out with some light taps... the problem is, it's probably already slid out and gone missing.

Once you find or source this gear, you drop it down that shaft and turn clockwise with a 4mm hex key. Your piston will begin to push it's way out. It has about 1/8" to go once it's off the adjuster. This is where you want to put it in a soft vise and wiggle the caliper 1/2 off the piston.

Once you get the piston out you'll see the adjuster shaft and a small clip. Put saftey glasses on because brake fluid is about to splatter all over your face. Take a straight dental pick and with your thumb over the top of the adjuster, pry inward (toward the shaft) and upward on the clip. It should snap out and send parts flying which is why I told you to put your thumb over the end of the adjuster shaft.

Once the clip is out you should be able to slide the entire adjuster mechanism out and get at the seal Ken is talking about. Clean everything up and put on a new o-ring seal (it's at the base of the shaft just above the gear teeth.

Next you have to get it back in... see the link and thread above. You'll need a 12mm deep well and a decent size clamp. If you have any questions, ask them in this thread and I'll get back to you (you could PM me but then others won't learn anything) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Hope that helps.