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FB914 |
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#1
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74 alaska blue 2.0 ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 63 Joined: 1-March 05 From: Philly Member No.: 3,689 ![]() |
I'm into the 3rd week (part time of course) of a rear bearing replacement project that has been a problem. I've been following the Pelican Parts recomended process from there tech article and that has been helpful. The problem is that the bearing broke apart as I tried to drive it out of the trailing arm. Only the outer ring or outer race of the old bearing is left and it does not want to budge out of the trailing arm. The pelican article says to use brute force and knock it out but I'm afraid of damaging the trailing arm. Anybody ever had this issue and if so, how did you get the bearing out? Thanks as always for your helpul replies.
Frank B |
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Eric_Shea |
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Frank,
Do you have compressed air and an air hammer? - If so you may want to take a blunt bit and position it (from the inside) on the small ledge left over on the existing race. Short bursts from 3:00 to 9:00/12:00 to 6:00 etc. Is the trailing arm off the car? At this point, it might be a good idea. If you have air and you can get in there without taking it off, all the better. Did it move at all before the inner portion came out? - Is that inner lip of the outer race exposed even more? Again, all the better. You may be able to take a punch and work the clockwise movement described above and slowly wiggle the race out that way. Sorry I'm not closer... if you have the time and money (probably around $50 in shipping both ways) I can do it for you. Send the control arms and your new bearings and I'll hook you up. |
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