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brer |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,555 Joined: 10-March 05 From: san diego Member No.: 3,736 Region Association: None ![]() |
Lessons are going well. I still have a penchant for adding way too much material.
These are my 2L heads. Plenty of practice in these babies. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Only had 4 sessions so far. Getting easier and easier though i'm not welding beer cans yet. (converting to 12mm plugs, fixing cracks and upping valves sizes) Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Jake Raby |
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#2
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Engine Surgeon ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Looks pretty good.. Looks like you may be using a little too much amperage in the one pic, hence the contaminants being pulled all the way to the surface of the weld.
TIV head castings are very difficult to weld, you have done better than most shops do.. The best way to post cool a head is in a preheated oven, when the head is introduced fresh off the bench turn the oven on the warm setting and then switch it off allowing the head to cool to room temp prior to removing. Len put 10 hours of preheat,weld and post cooling into the "Mighty Spyder" heads, these procedures are what makes a welded head a success or a catastrophe. |
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