1.7 Fuel Injection problem, Experts chime in! Options

[IronHillRestorations]

I've got a customer car here that's giving me some trouble.

To make a very long story as brief as possible, it's a '71 1.7 I've put new trigger points, ignition points, condenser (rotor & cap are like new), plugs look OK, injection tests out fine on my Ninefourtronics test set, fuel pressure is good when running bu it does leak down about 10 psi when you shut off the engine (I thought it should hold pressure), new vacuum lines (and yes I've double checked the routing to make sure it's correct). The engine has a different intake plenum (maybe out of an autostick 411??) and had no AAR, a cracked air intake elbow, bad vacuum lines and fuel lines, and some other problems. It is going to get the fuel pump relocated and new fuel lines, and a fuel tank cleaning or replacement.

The only issue I've had is after running it for a while the only way you can start it is with the throttle pedal to the floor. If you don't floor it, it will just crank and crank, It's suspicously like a vapor lock, but the car's got over 1/2 tank, and it's just not that warm here.

Otherwise it starts on the first or second crank by just turning the key. The engine is tired and close to the end of it's current service life, but this is kind of strange. I have the mixture pot on the ECU set fairly lean, as it seems to run best there.

The only other issue I've got is that the idle speed bypass screw is really at the end of the limit to get it to the correct idle speed, but my guess is this could be the fact that the engine is weak.

If you have a good opinion on this, I'll take it. Oh and no it's not my car so don't tell me to chunk the FI! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[toon1]

d-jet doesnt take vacuum readings does it? if it does the worn engine could cause a mixture difference but probably rich with low comp. what about the cold idle valve, i would think that too would richen not lean out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

what do you mean by vac. readings? The cold start vavlve is a good one (fith inj.), and should be checked.

If you are refering to the AAR as the cold start valve, that is basically a vac. leak at idle for a COLD engine and would make the motor lean when warm( more air) AND would be highly noticable at idle. It's possible it could be partially open. If it was missing in the beginning it should have been replaced with a working one!?