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72914S |
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#1
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love this shot ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,290 Joined: 10-July 03 From: Pensacola,Fl. Member No.: 900 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Well I finally got all the pieces for the rebuild.Yesterday Joe(Redneck Racer) came over,we planed to check the deck height.We put the crank in(those bearing pins are hard to line up).The rear main seemed real tight,finally got the dowel pin right and the crank turns freely.For the mock up I put the other case half on and tighted it up,now the crank won`t turn at all.Joe thinks I need line boreing.Let me say that this engine spun the rear main and cooked # 3 piston.Anyone out there have any thoughts. Am I doing something wrong.
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r_towle |
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#2
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Custom Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 24,705 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I agree, and obviously you need to take it apart.
I do this, in this order. Put in crank, no cam, no rod bearings, no rods. Tighten case to spec, all the bolts. Make sure the crank rotates with nothing attached. Then I do the rods, same deal. then I do the cam, windage tray etc. Each time I check to feel the resistance of the crank, if it changes, I remove the parts I juse did, and hunt down the problem. The height of the dowel pins on the crankshaft main bearings is a big issue if they are to long, they crush the bearing when torqued to spec. The pins are to keep the bearing from moving, nothing else...so they do not need to press into the bearings. Measure all the pins installed, and measure the depth of the hole in the bearings, if you have aftermarket pins, you might find something. RIch |
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