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72914S |
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#1
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love this shot ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,290 Joined: 10-July 03 From: Pensacola,Fl. Member No.: 900 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Well I finally got all the pieces for the rebuild.Yesterday Joe(Redneck Racer) came over,we planed to check the deck height.We put the crank in(those bearing pins are hard to line up).The rear main seemed real tight,finally got the dowel pin right and the crank turns freely.For the mock up I put the other case half on and tighted it up,now the crank won`t turn at all.Joe thinks I need line boreing.Let me say that this engine spun the rear main and cooked # 3 piston.Anyone out there have any thoughts. Am I doing something wrong.
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Jake Raby |
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#2
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Engine Surgeon ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 9,398 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
This case MUST have the main bores measured both with and without the main bearings in place as it sounds suspect for a case of main saddle collapse.. This can happen when a single bearing gets very hot and stays that way for a long while before failure. You can send us the case for eval and align bore if you want.
The big rule of thumb is that the engine must turn absolutely free when the shortblock is assembled.. It should take absolutely no more than 8 inch pounds of torque to rotate the engine with the shortblock totally torqued! Some people think that engines that are new should be tighter at assembly time and that they'll free up as the engine gets some time on it...WRONG!!! If anything they'll have high oil temps and SEIZE in extreme cases! It sounds to me like you may have "missed a pin" when you installed the crank.. IF you had my video I would have shown you the easy way to keep from doing this.... The video makes the assembly much faster and takes a lot of guesswork away. |
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