Made lots of changes, now it pushes, Yes, I know I shouldn't have |
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Made lots of changes, now it pushes, Yes, I know I shouldn't have |
nhallman |
Jun 3 2007, 09:51 PM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 8 Joined: 21-March 05 From: Columbia, SC Member No.: 3,793 |
OK, so I finally decided to do some suspension upgrades on my autocross car ('75 1.8), and I kind of did everything at once (yeah, yeah, I know):
Koni yellow shocks/struts 930 tie rods 22mm Weltmeister front sway bar 180# Weltmeister springs disconnected (stock) rear sway bar I was sort of following an old (mid-90's) Weltmeister guide for autocross setup that I found on the Pelican board, except they recommended 21mm torsion bars up front. I sort of ran out of cash, so I left the stock torsion bars on the car. So, I figured that by not stiffening the front as much as recommended, but making all the other changes, the car would tend toward loose (especially since that's how I tend to drive it). Wrong. It pushes... badly. When I made my first few runs, I had the Koni's on full stiff. I took a full turn out of the front and that helped, but the car still pushed. I played with pressures, taking 3 lbs. out of the rear (Kumho V710's - an R compound tire), leaving the front at 35 lbs. and the rear at 32 lbs. That helped, too, but it did still push and was a concern because the car had been so neutral prior to the changes that I rarely had to adjust tire pressure. So... now what? I have all this adjustment available to me, and I don't know what to try. My fear is that in my quest to get the car back to neutral, I'll take away some of the major gains I've made in grip (did I mention it did stick like 500% better?). I don't want to do that. My thoughts (ranging from simplest to craziest): - adjust my driving style and deal with it - soften the front struts even more - loosen the front sway bar (currently set to full stiff) - reconnect the rear sway bar - set the rear toe to 0 (currently 1/16 toe in, front is 3/32 toe out) - cut a coil from the rear springs (only a consideration b/c I can only get ~1.2 deg negative camber in the rear - all shims removed) Any ideas? I'm a fairly experienced autocrosser with a lot of seat time in this car, but I'm a total novice at suspension setup. I just tended to jump in the car and drive it up till now. TIA... |
914forme |
Jun 5 2007, 06:56 PM
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#2
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
That is very minal camber there. You will notice that the tops on your stuts, can be swapped side to side. It might help you with a little extra. You get them mixed up????
The rears should be able to go way more than that also, the rear shims come in different thicknesses, also. Another thing I see is you changed your bushings. That could have changed your posistiion also. The down side of deformed bushings is that they are compliant. So at rest you could be getting a very bogus reading, they would have had to let your front arms push out but it is possible. The rears it is much more doable that the bushings allowed for a higher degree of camber. Nothing wrong with changing everything at once. Now just change one thing at a time and see the results, keep notes and understand what hte changes you do, and how they effected your car. BTW, 5.5" are kinda narrow for hte V710s yes lots of people do them, but I would recommend a rim width increase myself. And yes they are on Kumho's size chart for hte tire but I consider them small for that app. I would run 7s or 6.5s if you can find them. I happen to be one that run a rear bar, it could be used to increase rear stiffeness and thus help balance out your car. But you do run the risk, of wheel lift. I have in the past. |
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