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TonyAKAVW |
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That's my ride. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,151 Joined: 17-January 03 From: Redondo Beach, CA Member No.: 166 Region Association: None ![]() |
I want to make a diffuser/engine pan for my car, and last night I started gluing foam sheets together to make a mold. My plan is to form the foam into the shape I want and then seal it with body filler, and then primer and polish. I have been reading up on making molds for composite work and most seem to talk about making a copmosite piece for the mold rather than what I am planning. If I make my mold as described will my composite part rip the mold apart when I seperate the two? (assuming I use a PVA mold release film).
Also, if I make the part with carbon fiber, how do I finish the edges of the piece when I'm done? I would like to vacuum bag this part because the part will be visible from the top and the bottom... Can I get away not bagging it and get a decent finish? (I'm not super concerned that it has a perfect surface really). -Tony Finished part will look something like this... With the long straight edge meeting up against the firewall and the two tunnels exiting right under the bumper. Attached image(s) ![]() |
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geniusanthony |
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Its a brand new "Chrome-sicle" ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 517 Joined: 12-December 05 From: Alexandria,VA Member No.: 5,266 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() |
I have also done some composite work on R/C pylon airplanes and had good luck with mylar as a face for the mold. The product I used was an adhesive backed mylar film that had a low temp adhesive. This film was applied with a covering iron. Any hobby shop that sells R/C hobby products will be able to give you more information than I can recall from 5+ years ago. I wish you luck in your project however.
Going this route will save you time with sanding, painting, and polishing your part to get that perfect surface. I will advise that if you go this route, please practice on scrap first as I don't want to be the one to have caused a melt in your mold. There may be alot of help gained from a KNOWLEDGEABLE person at the shop. The material comes in 3 ft. wide rolls x 30? and the fact that the adhesive is heat activated will help avoid wrinkles as you iron and stratch the material over your plug. The heated adhesive will seal edges down so you could cover 1 section at a time. |
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