Am I out of threads on my clutch?, See photo, it's the best |
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Am I out of threads on my clutch?, See photo, it's the best |
purple |
Aug 23 2007, 09:34 AM
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#21
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Pigeon feeders attract me Group: Members Posts: 938 Joined: 24-July 07 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 7,942 Region Association: None |
Hey Guys,
I'm curious if my clutch cable is out of threads at the tranny end. I've drawn what can best be described as the best pen-paper drawing ever. This illustrious illustration illustrates the indignant state of my clutch linkage exactly. The arm that goes to the clutch is all the way against the back of the cable. If I move the arm closer to the end of the threads, what does that do? (to the right in the picture) If I move the arm closer to the back of the car, what does that do? (to the left in the picture) I'd like your guys input because the haynes manual kinda glosses over this part. If I'm out of threads, does that mean I'll be replacing the clutch soon? Thanks guys! Attached thumbnail(s) |
Brian Mifsud |
Aug 24 2007, 12:17 PM
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#22
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
Check the Socket which the Clutch fork Ball pivots in. These are made of injection molded plastic, and are not solid. Over time, they break down and collapse. The pivot for the fork moves so you will never get enough ajustment in the cable until you replace it. I machined one out of self-lubricated bearing bronze which I believe will last several lifetimes. I spent many hours trying to debug this one and it was very frustrating. That was my motivation to machine an "overkill" solution rather than simply ordering a new one for a few bucks from Porsche.
See item #5 in the attached photo. Attached image(s) |
Bartlett 914 |
Aug 25 2007, 08:53 AM
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#23
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,216 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Check the Socket which the Clutch fork Ball pivots in. These are made of injection molded plastic, and are not solid. Over time, they break down and collapse. The pivot for the fork moves so you will never get enough ajustment in the cable until you replace it. I machined one out of self-lubricated bearing bronze which I believe will last several lifetimes. I spent many hours trying to debug this one and it was very frustrating. That was my motivation to machine an "overkill" solution rather than simply ordering a new one for a few bucks from Porsche. See item #5 in the attached photo. I found on mine that the plastic cup was worn through and the ball had ground a deep spot in the shifter fork. This means that the new plastic cup would no longer have proper support below. This will cause the new one to wear out or break much sooner. Make sure the bottom of the hole in the shift fork is flat. |
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