My engine temps are high...real high, Paging Jake Raby |
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My engine temps are high...real high, Paging Jake Raby |
purple |
Sep 13 2007, 04:29 PM
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#1
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Pigeon feeders attract me Group: Members Posts: 938 Joined: 24-July 07 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 7,942 Region Association: None |
Hey Yall,
I just installed my Cylinder Head temp sensor under the plug on #3, didnt cut the wires and installed everything as per VDO specs. I also hooked up my oil temp gauge and to my delight, the sensor actually works. Now, the bad news... My engine runs hot....REAL hot. According to Jake, this thing should be severely damaged by now. At idle it'll get up to 350 on head temps pretty quick and stay there. After driving a little it'll get to 400 and stay there, going down to 350 when sitting at a light. If i start cruising at 45mph or so, it'll get to 400 and a little beyond, i think i've seen as high as 450 on there. Just cruising in 4th gear going 45 will do this. The thing is, the engine sounds fine. I was expecting to hear wierd noises or see smoke, but it just keeps thrumming along. What's going on here? About the engine: hydraulic lifters. no lower air diverter (plastic flap thingy) on passenger side no lower engine tin on driver's side pretty much shot seals around the engine tin no warm air guides stock 76 exhaust manifold to cobbled shitty motorcycle dual exhaust, 1 per cyl bank weber progressive carb what looks like a 009 on there (mallory and promaster are on the way) What can I do to lower these temps? is my engine toast? (it seems to drive just fine, if a little slow) It had run-on and was pinging on the last tank of gas (regular) but now i'm running premium and those things seem to have stopped Help me guys, jake, what can i do? timing? too lean? what? |
jk76.914 |
Sep 15 2007, 07:26 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 809 Joined: 12-April 05 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 3,925 Region Association: North East States |
That missing baffle could be your biggest single problem, of the many you have. It restricts the air from going around the cooler parts of the cylinders and head- doesn't stop it, just offers restriction. More air then takes the path of least resistance, which is the hotter areas. It also forces the air to curve around the bottoms of the cylinders. Without it, the bottom sides of the barrels would be way undercooled, leading to weird distortion of the barrel at temp.
Anyway, if you only have it on the passenger side, the entire driver's side is a path of least resistance, so much more air will flow to the driver's side. Since your temp gauge is on #3, you're measuring the side that's getting less than adequate air flow. I suppose it'd be interesting to relocate the temp sender to the driver's side and measure the temp, but I wouldn't drive it at all, even for a test like this, until this baffle is in place. I personally wouldn't pull the engine to replace this. After the exhaust is off, just take the valve covers and rockers off, pull the pushrod tubes, and you're there. While the pushrod tubes are off, carefully pull a couple of lifters- one at a time- and inspect for wear. Also, look at the cam lobe with a flashlight for wear as well. Jim |
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