Identifying engine, serial doesnt match pelicans? |
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Identifying engine, serial doesnt match pelicans? |
stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 08:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
i found the serial number on my engine and im having trouble identifying it. i tried comparing it to the FAQ on Pelican:
"A very good indicator of what type of four-banger you have is the engine code. The engine code is located in front of the oil filler, between it and the fan shroud, on 2.0L cases. The code should start with "GA" (for 73-74) or "GC" (for 75-76). The European 2.0L engine code starts with "GB". The 1.7L and 1.8L engine codes are on a flat spot located toward the right-rear of the top of the case. You may have to push some hoses and wires out of the way, and clean off a lot of dirt to read them. 1.7L engine codes start with "W", "EA", or "EB" (for the 73 California car). The 1.8L codes start with "EC" for the US model, or "AN" for the European model." now im pretty sure mine is: 6A012526 so far ive been under the impression that this is a '76 can anyone help clarify? |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 21 2007, 10:49 AM
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#2
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The threaded hole is in front of the oil filler--at least, if we're talking about "front" being toward the nose of the car!
That is the timing hole. If you stick your head waaaay into the engine bay, you can look through the hole to see the timing marks on the rear part of the fan. There is a plastic plug that screws in there; it should be available from all of your favorite 914 parts places. (My favorite is in my sig below!) Everyone swears by (and at!) the Haynes because it's cheap, and gives you about 85% of the words and pictures straight out of the $400 factory manuals. Yeah, the factory manuals are not so great... Re-installing the cooling flaps is a pretty tedious process. There's lots of stuff "in the way" that has to be removed. Pretty much all of the intake, all of the ignition, and so on--all of the stuff on top of the motor. Then you get to try to remove the engine tin screws (the only screwdriver I could find that fits the screw heads is about 2.5 feet long!) and wiggle the engine tin that covers the cylinder heads out of the engine bay, so you can put the flaps in. Then get everything else back in. Probably worth checking to see if the flaps are actually there or not. If not, your oil temps will get quite high... --DD |
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