Bleeding Spongy Brakes, Proportioning Valve Questions |
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Bleeding Spongy Brakes, Proportioning Valve Questions |
Cjllong |
Oct 14 2007, 11:04 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 66 Joined: 2-July 07 From: Ukiah Member No.: 7,862 |
I did a rear brake pad replacement. After putting everything back together and bleeding the brakes, I still had spongy brakes. I inspected the old rubber lines and found a leak. I bought 4 steel braided brake lines and intalled them all today. I re-bled the brakes, using the family member method mentioned on Pelican Parts, and STILL have spongy brakes! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I have double checked everything and nothing leaks. The Pel. Parts article mentions bleeding the proportioning valve, but it's not very clear to me as to how it's done. Does anybody have any pics of this valve and how to bleed it correctly? I believe I still have the 17mm master cylinder and I think I'm going to have to buy the 19mm. I just have to do it secrectly, so my wife doesn't find out!! Thanks!
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davep |
Oct 15 2007, 12:01 PM
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#2
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,151 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
There are a few other tricks.
Most important, do not let the fluid level in the reservoir get too low such that air gets into the master cylinder. If you have to replace the MC and or brake lines this can be impossible. However it can be minimized. Be sure to set the rear pad venting clearance to 0.004" before bleeding, and be sure the front pads lock the rotors when you do them. Original rubber lines are preferred over all other lines. Old rubber lines need to be replaced at least every 10 to 15 years. The time honoured method of pumping the brake pedal to bleed the brakes has the advantage of compressing air bubbles and helping them move through the system. Rapping with a hammer (dead blow preferred) while pumping has the best chance of dislodging bubbles. This works for both the proportioning valve and the calipers. |
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