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| jaybird840 |
Dec 12 2007, 02:45 PM
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 163 Joined: 27-September 06 From: Austin, TX Member No.: 6,927 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I just bolted up my new Eric Shea control arms with the Elephant poly bronze bushings for my five lug rear conversion and I'm really psyched. They installed almost effortlessly, and I'm completing the install. However, when I went to install the new 914/6 rear rotors (thanks Mark H!) the holes for the two little screws that hold the rotor to the hub no longer line up. What are my options? 1) drill and tap for the new location 2) can you let the rotor "float" and just keep it held down with the torque of the lug nutz? Thanks guys!!!
--Jaybird |
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| Eric_Shea |
Dec 12 2007, 09:01 PM
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PMB Performance ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Admin Posts: 19,304 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE It would move the rotor outward by .006 - .008 which could make the alignment of the caliper and rotor difficult. Nada. The width of a business card isn't going to make any difference here. He has caliper issues. From your description of the process/instructions, it seems this is an outer piston. I don't think there's any need for fancy tools. You may want to pull that caliper and stick your thumb on it. Rock it back and forth meaning; spin the adjuster counter clockwise just enough until you feel it start to move out. Stop. Now turn it clockwise again to pull it in. Your internal adjuster mechanism is hanging up just enough to cause it to spin inside the piston. There might be some grundge in there... working it back and forth might free up the threads a bit. I'll try to grab a picture of the internal mechanism so you know what's probably happening. The only thing I can think to do at this time is to rock it back and forth as described. if you have a plastic mallet you may want to tap it a bit and try rocking again. Ask El Capitan states... apply pressure to it while you do this. |
jaybird840 Rear rotor hold-down screws Dec 12 2007, 02:45 PM
Spoke I don't believe you need the little screws. Th... Dec 12 2007, 03:01 PM
SLITS On a /4 the screws keep the rotor from falling off... Dec 12 2007, 03:02 PM
Jeffs9146 I drilled mine but I was told I didn't need to... Dec 12 2007, 03:41 PM
Eric_Shea 914 and 911 (hence 914-6) hold down screws are in ... Dec 12 2007, 04:13 PM
rfuerst911sc Funny you posted this because I'm in the same ... Dec 12 2007, 04:33 PM
jaybird840
Funny you posted this because I'm in the same... Dec 12 2007, 04:40 PM
rfuerst911sc
Funny you posted this because I'm in the sam... Dec 13 2007, 04:59 AM
Jeffs9146
You need to loosen the pad adjuster on the outsi... Dec 12 2007, 05:23 PM
Eric_Shea
If you decide to tap, tap both. It's best t... Dec 12 2007, 05:24 PM
Eric_Shea
Agreed, it would be fairly easy at machining tim... Dec 12 2007, 06:19 PM
Jeffs9146 Was the hub powder coated on the face between the ... Dec 12 2007, 06:30 PM
Eric_Shea No. Why would that matter though...? :confused: Dec 12 2007, 06:31 PM
Jeffs9146 It would move the rotor outward by .006 - .008 whi... Dec 12 2007, 06:44 PM
Cap'n Krusty To emphasize what was mentioned earlier, ALWAYS ap... Dec 12 2007, 07:15 PM
jaybird840
To emphasize what was mentioned earlier, ALWAYS a... Dec 12 2007, 08:31 PM
Jeffs9146
A C-clamp with an old brake pad will work, just ... Dec 12 2007, 08:55 PM
Eric_Shea Here's one that was on the bench. The assembl... Dec 12 2007, 09:10 PM
Jeffs9146
Thats what the old brake pad is for! :idea: ... Dec 12 2007, 09:28 PM
Eric_Shea
Other side... difficult to keep the c-clamp on t... Dec 12 2007, 09:59 PM
Jeffs9146
I agree! The alternative is to rebuild! ... Dec 12 2007, 10:35 PM![]() ![]() |
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