The start of my 2.0 build, and also the start of my questions Options

[MrKona]

I talked about building up a 2.0 last winter, and now I'm finally going to do it. This is my first engine build, hence it'll be conservative and relatively stock. My only plan with the car is to have a nice, reliable, well constructed engine. I thought about a 2056, but I finally decided to stay with 94mm cylinders. I really don't want to have to tweak with FI or fiddle with cam selection right now. I've read that Jake's 9550 cam is excellent, but also that it produced dirty emissions. I'd like to keep this engine as clean as a type 4 can be. I'm also a little confused if Jake is even selling cams at the moment, so I've just decided to go with a stock grind.

My current engine is a PO rebuilt 1.8 with hydraulic lifters (with one that won't prime, sounds horrible, I can't wait to be done with them).

Highlights:

GA case
Stock displacement (with new Euro spec pistons)
Stock grind Webcam and with solid lifters (both new)
For now, I'm going to cannibalize the rebuilt 1.8 heads from my current engine, unless I find a deal on decent rebuild 2.0 heads during the build. I would love to buy a pair of Raby heads, just can't swallow the extra two grand at the moment.
L-jet fuel injection from my 1.8. (I have some issues to work out here, running really rich. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I have to check the fuel pressure - I'm thinking either AFM or pressure regulator as next areas to check). From what I've read on many threads here and other sites, the L-jet can handle up to a 2056 displacement.

I'll keep this thread updated this winter as I work through this rebuild. I don't know how long a project this will be or how quickly I may get it done.

Current progress: Jake Raby rebuild DVD - Check. Tom Wilson's book - Check. I've split the case and and planning on bringing the case, crank, and rods for reconditioning to Dan Hall's Machine Shop here in Portland. After reading various forums, this appears to be the Type IV specialist in this area. Brand new Euro-spec P/C set - Check! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

So now for my first question: Regarding the existing cylinder studs, Tom Wilson writes, "Unless you're installing case savers, don't remove the cylinder studs from the case. Doing so has no purpose, but does wear the potentially troublesome case threads, takes time, and stresses the studs" (p. 76).

In the assembly section, he states "If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks" (p. 120).

I don't know the history of this case. I don't know if there was leakage at the head studs. Should I remove the studs, and reinstall with Permatex (after the case comes back from the machine shop, obviously) as a precaution to prevent potential leakage? Or should I just leave them be as is? Does it really put that much stress on the case to remove them, or is Wilson referring primarily to the Type I-III magnesium cases? I am leaning to toward remove and reinstall, as I strongly intend for this engine to be leak-free.

Lastly, as I work through this process, I welcome and encourage comments. Please, if you see something I'm doing wrong, or have advice for me, give it to me! I can probably use it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Jake Raby]

I talked about building up a 2.0 last winter, and now I'm finally going to do it. This is my first engine build, hence it'll be conservative and relatively stock.

Cool.. But the stock combo certainly isn't the most optimum for today's driving and fuels.

My only plan with the car is to have a nice, reliable, well constructed engine.

Call me.

I thought about a 2056, but I finally decided to stay with 94mm cylinders. I really don't want to have to tweak with FI or fiddle with cam selection right now.

It's all in the combo. Many times trying to avoid problems (that don't really exist) only creates compromises, spends more money and still creates problems that you must overcome. Trying to avoid issues creates a mind set that breeds issues, it is mechanical and you must have the desire to whip it's ass and that must begin right now if you intend to get your money's worth and not be under the decklid every weekend....

I've read that Jake's 9550 cam is excellent, but also that it produced dirty emissions.

NO!!!! Who said it ran dirty? Who failed an emissions test with it? Send me a link!
The 9550 manipulates the stock FI system very well and the results people have gotten with it prove this. Cooler running, more MPG, broader power and an extended RPM range are it'c characteristics- Dirty emissions is not!

I'd like to keep this engine as clean as a type 4 can be.

OK. No p[roblem, add some CR, couple that to a 9550 and the engine will run cleaner than it was designed to 35 years ago.

I'm also a little confused if Jake is even selling cams at the moment,

Yes, but only with complete valve train kits of compatible parts.
See this comprehensive presentation I created to go over the selection oc components. Here is the link to the version that can be viewed with IE7
http://rdtlabs.com/Presentations/t4engcam.mht

And here is the much better version for Poer Point users.
http://rdtlabs.com/Presentations/t4engcam.pps
There should be no questions remaining after viewing the presentation with it's illustrations.

See this thread on my forum for specifics on the program that we have created for 2008
http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=1929

so I've just decided to go with a stock grind.

Since at least one of the 11 variables dictating the necessity of valve train geometry being reset will be encountered sticking with the stock cam isn't going to make the engine any easier to build. The cams cost the same as well, so there won't be any money saved either..

The stock cam is the first thing I throw away....

My current engine is a PO rebuilt 1.8 with hydraulic lifters (with one that won't prime, sounds horrible, I can't wait to be done with them).

Can't blame you there...

Highlights:

GA case

Better check those case decks! the GA case is the worst!

Stock displacement (with new Euro spec pistons)

If you haven't bought those yet, the 96s give so much more with no negative aspects.

Stock grind Webcam and with solid lifters (both new)

The stock web grind isn't a 914 spec :"stock grind"

For now, I'm going to cannibalize the rebuilt 1.8 heads from my current engine, unless I find a deal on decent rebuild 2.0 heads during the build.

According to who rebuilt them you might buy a nightmare.

I would love to buy a pair of Raby heads, just can't swallow the extra two grand at the moment.

I have one pair of my personal 2.0 heads that I'll be selling soon, these are not our new castings but are built to our specs and done Len's way back to stock specs with new valve train and upgraded parts.

L-jet fuel injection from my 1.8. (I have some issues to work out here, running really rich. No vacuum leaks that I can find. I have to check the fuel pressure - I'm thinking either AFM or pressure regulator as next areas to check). From what I've read on many threads here and other sites, the L-jet can handle up to a 2056 displacement.

Yes, L jet seems to like a 2056 better than a stock displacement engine.

I'll keep this thread updated this winter as I work through this rebuild. I don't know how long a project this will be or how quickly I may get it done.

Current progress: Jake Raby rebuild DVD -

Cool.. Feel free to seek assistance on my forums as well, if you do go the more efficient route.

So now for my first question: Regarding the existing cylinder studs, Tom Wilson writes, "Unless you're installing case savers, don't remove the cylinder studs from the case. Doing so has no purpose, but does wear the potentially troublesome case threads, takes time, and stresses the studs" (p. 76).

I concur.

In the assembly section, he states "If the cylinder studs were removed for some reason, install them now. Apply Permatex 3H to their threads to stop oil leaks" (p. 120).

I concur. But I use loctite 565

I don't know the history of this case. I don't know if there was leakage at the head studs. Should I remove the studs, and reinstall with Permatex (after the case comes back from the machine shop, obviously) as a precaution to prevent potential leakage? Or should I just leave them be as is? Does it really put that much stress on the case to remove them, or is Wilson referring primarily to the Type I-III magnesium cases? I am leaning to toward remove and reinstall, as I strongly intend for this engine to be leak-free.

This is really a non issue and you have much bigger things to worry about. I haven't had a stud leak in about 12 years-

Lastly, as I work through this process, I welcome and encourage comments. Please, if you see something I'm doing wrong, or have advice for me, give it to me! I can probably use it!

Good mind set.

I'd like to see you get the most for your money and what we are doing just plain works.