OT: 914's are not the only thing that rust, This is in my garage Options

[rick 918-S]

I started out to help a friend with some rust repair on his Mercedes. Things got a little out of hand.

I started on this car last year but had to put it on hold. I worked all summer, fall and early winter out of town.

[r_towle]

did you make the hammer stand? If so, please explain.
And its use.
IC you use a torch, why?
I got more, but I will keep it short for now.

Rich

[rick 918-S]

did you make the hammer stand? If so, please explain.
And its use.
IC you use a torch, why?
I got more, but I will keep it short for now.

Rich

The stand you are refering to is a planishing hammer sold by harbor frieght. The lower anvils that come with the unit have verying radius' for curving sheet metel. I also cut the head off a shrinking hammer and use it in the planisher to flatten stuff out.

Torch is for shrinking, anniling and gas welding. Sometimes the metal will work harden so you need to soften it back up. Some of the panels on this car have obvious gas welds on them. I have to replicate the look.


Ask away.

BTW: once the rails (the rockers in this car are actually the structural rails) are back in the rest of the car comes apart to the shell for blasting. I have it set up on a jig now so I have to get the rails back in before it comes off the jig.

This car had the front shroud (fenders,nose panel, and wiper panel) as well as both quarters replaced probably when it was near new. they were brazed back on. Every place where the brazing was done rusted real bad!


This is the front... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) It's getting new inner structure. I had to assemble the inner panel and the upper boxed rail. I have a spot welder to replicate the factory welds. I transfered the shock mount from the old panel to the new. Notice the weld bead across the top like the factory and the spot welds on the verticals.