Jeez I'm stupid (rear caliper beat down) Options

[worktheweb]

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Ok, I just got through paying twice for my rear brakes to get adjusted in my 73. I had the Ebrake cables replaced and had less-used calipers put on. The guy couldn't get the brakes bled but finally let me know that it was done. I drove it home thinking "These brakes suck". I should point out that I've replaced everything except the hard brake lines on this car with less than 100 miles on everything. Everything was new as of 4 years ago except I DIDN'T buy new calipers for the back and of course now they're NLA. Doh!

Anyway, I had the car on jackstands and was mounting my new Kumhos when I realized that the right rear caliper was tight. This coincedentally is the only caliper that the ebrake lever actuates. I figured no big deal I'll just adjust it with this hex bolt thingy that I've tried to avoid for all these years. Turns out that the 13mm nut and the 4mm hex bolt have become one and when I was turning the bolt I heard something go ping and brake fluid started to drip out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Capital F, capital U, capital C... After about 20 minutes of disbelief I figured I'd suck it up and remove this used caliper and remount my original used caliper. Can't remember which way the mounting bolts turn and figured if I forced it I'd break something else. This is the passenger side rear caliper. Does anyone have a tried-and-true method for removing these bolts?

While I'm asking for help is there anyone in Northern VA that is good with brakes and has a beer dependency problem that wants to supervise my re-repair job? I'm in Springfield and I have a kegorator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Thanks in advance. I'm on my way over to Sears to get better tools.