FS (CenCal Coast): Subaru EJ22T engine & accessories, SOLD Options

[strawman]

I am selling the EJ22T engine that is currently in my 1973 Porsche 914 for $1500. This would be an ideal setup for a 914, a VW Bug or Ghia, a sand buggy or -- dare I say it -- a 911 or 912! The engine came from a 1993 Subaru Legacy turbo wagon, and has been running in my 914 for about three years now. The EJ22T is highly sought after because it is a closed-deck design and it has factory oil-squirters to keep the pistons cool. The engine runs great and helped me with my “proof of concept” autocross build, but now I’m stepping up and installing a highly-modified EJ255.

The complete build can be seen at My Build Blog





The Legacy SS had 110k miles on it when I bought it in 2010, and I drove it for about a month before I began the swap to make sure everything worked correctly. I replaced every hose, gasket and seal with factory Subaru parts (including the cam seals!), so there are zero leaks. I also replaced the water pump, knock sensor and oil pump with OEM parts while the engine was out. I run full synthetic Rotella T6 oil, and only use Chevron premium gasoline with Lucas Octane Booster.

With the modifications below, I believe it puts out about 220hp at the crank at a very conservative 9 psi – but you can bump it up to easily get 275hp with higher boost. The modifications include:

1. RobTune 550 tune on a modified engine control unit (ECU). The ECU is from a mid-90s Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Suburu WRX STi, tuned for 525cc yellow-top injectors, 4-to-1 wasted-spark ignition converter, a green label MAF, and Rob’s custom injector adapters. This tune eliminates the mid-range stumble and the factory fuel-cut above 9psi, and raises the RPM max to 7100. This setup requires at least a Walbro 255lph fuel pump. All told, this cost me $1000 six months ago. Read more about this setup at www.robtune.com. I’ll include all of the modified/labeled wiring harness, relays, fuses, etc.

2. Rebuilt TD04L-13T turbocharger out of a 2004 WRX. It is a very conservative turbo, but it boosts well at low rpms – which is good for quick low-end torque. I’ve designed the inlet setup so that you don’t need to run a funky cast 90* elbow inlet turbo, which allows for an easy upgrade to larger (VF39/48/52, TD05, etc.) turbo if you’re after higher-rpm power.

3. Flipped stock aluminum intake manifold, with phenolic spacers between the manifold and heads. This shortens the intercooler piping and provided additional space in the 914, while the spacers help reduce heat soak. The alternator now resides close to where the A/C compressor pump used to sit. Sometimes the alternator belt squeaks at start-up because of the solid aluminum crank pulley, and the missing wrap of A/C compressor and power steering pumps, but I’ve never thrown the belt and there are no weird wear patterns.

4. Custom FrozenBoost Type 13 air-to-water (A2W) intercooler setup with as short an air path as possible, which essentially eliminates boost lag. You can rest your hand on the intake pipe even after a balls-to-the-wall autocross run. I’ll include all the custom piping, silicone hoses and huge K&N cone filter. I’ll also include the custom recirculating Blow-Off Valve (BOV) and air-oil separator (AOS) setups that tie into this system. You’ll just need to add your own a A2W coolant pump (I use a junkyard BMW 5-series heater booster pump), heat exchanger, and ¾” rubber hoses.

5. Ported factory exhaust system, including drilled/tapped hole for an exhaust gas temperature thermocouple in the #2/#4 manifold. Some guys run a tubular header system, but they’re prone to cracking. I’m keeping my customized Cobb downpipe/muffler setup.

I run six important gauges that I strongly recommend: 1) wide-band air-fuel ratio, 2) exhaust gas temperature, 3) turbo boost, 4) oil temperature, 5) oil pressure, and 6) coolant temperature. My engine setup is rock-solid, and I can show you how well it works – you can watch the gauges while I hammer on the car.

I’m also running a 3-quart Accusump oil accumulator system and a cast aluminum shortened oil pan with oil temp sensor that I plan to keep. I will remove those systems and reinstall stock parts. I will also remove the lightweight crank pulley and install a used stock one for you. Finally, I will keep my lightened flywheel/clutch setup.

I plan to swap to the EJ255 around Christmas time. If you hurry, I will take you for a ride in my Porsche 914 so that you can see how well the engine performs. I will then put the car up on my 2-post lift so that you can see it from all angles. Once I receive payment from you, I will remove it and label the wiring harness for you showing what external hookups (ignition power, battery power, tach, coolant temp, etc.) you need to make. I’ll include an MS Excel spreadsheet showing all wiring connections, as well as MS Word instructions for the RobTune component installations.

Once removed, the engine will be resting temporarily on my custom engine removal cradle. We can use my cherry picker to load it into your vehicle – bring a tire to rest it on. I can also deliver it within 200 miles prepaid for $100 plus $0.50/mile (as long as you have a cherry picker at your house). I am located in San Luis Obispo, CA. PM with your phone number if you want to chat more about the engine.