Yet more rewiring, step 2, early getting it to run Options

[lapuwali]

After removing 99% of the old wire, I determined the worst part of the hackage was in the ignition switch itself.

So, I put in just enough wiring to make the car go again, using bits and bobs I had lying around the garage. The fuse/relay plate was made using a DeCecco pasta tin lid. I use one fusebox from the JWest unit I had, one mountable relay I had on the shelf, and an insulated bolt from the top of an old VDO fuel sender.

I didn't trust the stock ignition switch, so I just used the hazard flasher switch as the main power switch. For the starter, I used a 20 amp momentary toggle I'd used on an old Mini awhile back. I ALMOST used a dash-mount keyswitch I had on the shelf, but it was a Lucas part from an old Brit car, and probably would have destroyed the entire car if I fit it.

The hazard switch has three terminals that connect together when it's pulled out, so one big red wire (battery +12) went to one terminal, and two black (switched +12) came off the switch. One of these connected directly to the G light bulb (the other end connected to the blue wire from the tunnel), the other connected to the insulated bolt on my "fuse panel". Another black wire off that bolt to the starter switch, with the other terminal connecting to the yellow wire from the tunnel. No fuses here, as the OEM stuff isn't fused here, either. Finally, one more black wire on the insulated bolt to the black wire from the tunnel (coil + and fuel pump).

Pull out the hazard switch, the red light in the knob comes on, the G light comes on. Push the momentary switch, and vroom. G light goes out, a quick check shows 13.5v at the battery, so we're good to go. One more black wire to the brake light switch will get those working, too.

This is literally all that's required to get a car running and more or less streetable in the daytime, when it's not raining.

Next step will be gauges, then lights.

(no photos, I know, battery's dead...)