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> 914 engine build, Link with lots of pictures as I rebuild my engine
purple
post Mar 24 2008, 08:26 AM
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I'm still in awe of this website... truly awesome work!

I had no idea the engine was 70 lbs of rotating mass! amazing!
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Van
post Mar 24 2008, 09:28 AM
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QUOTE(purple @ Mar 24 2008, 06:26 AM) *


I had no idea the engine was 70 lbs of rotating mass! amazing!


Neither did I! Imagine my surprise when I "hefted" that box onto the scale and it was 72 lbs. I'm sure I'm going to have one pissed-off UPS man!
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cuca914
post Mar 24 2008, 12:34 PM
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Wow! Amazing insight into the beginnings of an engine rebuild! Thanks for putting so much time into your process - the website is awesome! It definitely offers some better understanding of how these engines work.

Now I really can't wait for my RAT Type IV Rebuild DVD to arrive!
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Van
post Apr 8 2008, 09:11 AM
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I've made a little more progress. I did a little grinding in the case and got my camshaft all ready.

Here's the link to my web page

I got all of my rotating parts back from Jake - when time allows, I'll try to move onto ASSEMBLY!

(there is also a little bonus on the web page - some rust/sheetmetal repair)
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root
post Apr 8 2008, 11:47 AM
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Van You 'da MAN! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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ConeDodger
post Apr 8 2008, 11:58 AM
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QUOTE(cuca914 @ Mar 24 2008, 11:34 AM) *

Wow! Amazing insight into the beginnings of an engine rebuild! Thanks for putting so much time into your process - the website is awesome! It definitely offers some better understanding of how these engines work.

Now I really can't wait for my RAT Type IV Rebuild DVD to arrive!


When I ordered my kit I contacted Rebecca at the Type IV Store and she sent the video out early. It is part of the kit but I wanted it so I could "study for the test". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I must have watched that thing about 20 times before the FedEx guy pulled in my driveway.
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Van
post Apr 28 2008, 09:16 AM
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I've added some updates to my website: http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine

Mostly measuring and dry assembly - I've found a few more things that need to be tweaked. I also posted some pictures of the new heads!
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Phoenix914
post Apr 28 2008, 11:28 AM
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Fantastic info! Thanks for taking the time to put this together. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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purple
post Apr 28 2008, 11:33 AM
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Very nice! I'm glad to see all the things i'm learning just looking at your guide. For instance I learned:

do not buy brazillian rod bearings! OMG! is that maybe why all your connecting rods had differing lengths and were not clearing the cam lobes? Maybe you dont need to have them machined if that's the case?

purple
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Van
post Apr 28 2008, 12:40 PM
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QUOTE(purple @ Apr 28 2008, 09:33 AM) *

Very nice! I'm glad to see all the things i'm learning just looking at your guide. For instance I learned:

do not buy brazillian rod bearings! OMG! is that maybe why all your connecting rods had differing lengths and were not clearing the cam lobes? Maybe you dont need to have them machined if that's the case?

purple


Glad you guys like it!

For what it's worth, the Brazillian crank bearings were spot on...

As for the rods, they are manufactured in china - they are steel castings that then have the bores (for the small end and the large end) machined into them. The issue is the consistancy of the castings and the consistancy of fixturing the blanks for the machining process (like a metal chip between the vice or fixture and the part). The bore sizes are correct and the distance between bores is correct.

In my situation, tweakin the rods is the best thing to do. It might not have been an issue if I was using high-end rods (like Carillo or Pauter).

If Jake reads this, he'll also add that one of the advantages to his complete kit engines is he takes care of any of these fit issues before it ships to you. (If that makes a sale, do I get a commision?) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Jake Raby
post Apr 28 2008, 12:43 PM
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We are clearancing his rods now, the bearings had nothing to do with it..

The only way to avoid hitting snags like Van has encountered is to buy a full engine kit with our prep work, then there is no chance of having these issues. Van decided to travel the road as a lone soldier, we sold him several parts, but he didn't get a full kit.. we did the best we could to make sure he didn't hit issues with compatability, but there is no substitution for a kit..
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Jake Raby
post Apr 28 2008, 12:54 PM
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BTW-from time to time people will venture down the path that Van has, when they do we try our best to make the buiild as smooth as we can for them, eliminating guess work as much as possible. Before my store opened compatible parts for the TIV could not be boight over the counter, if thiswere then Van would have already went through 3 camshafts and 3-4 sets of rods before he got the parts to "clear" each other....

Been there, done that and try to keep the issue from haunting others.. Thge process can be easy or difficult, its only dependant upon the decisions the customer makes...

Incompatible parts have been the number one issue that has kept the TIV engine filled with ups and downs since its conception.
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jasons
post Apr 28 2008, 01:11 PM
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Which rod journal (2.0, Type1, Chevy) are you using? Is the cam reduced base circle?
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Jake Raby
post Apr 28 2008, 01:20 PM
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Yes, the cam is one of my reduced base circle versions. The idea is not to reduce the base circle to much, effecting lifter bore integrity/ wear.

It is very easy to compromise lonvgevity to gain clearance. My theory is to take just the right amount of material from the components to reduce compromise.

Its all in the combo.
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jasons
post Apr 29 2008, 10:44 AM
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Interesting.... So, I would still like to know the rod journal size. I'm guessing 2.0 since you used the Chinese rods. Also what length rod, 5.325?
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Van
post Jul 8 2008, 12:41 PM
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Jasons, the rod journals are Type 1 - 5.4" beam, I believe.

Well, a few months have passed where I've done absolutely nothing on my poor engine...

But I did get to spend about 2 hours over the holiday weekend tinkering.

I made an adjustable pushrod and modified one side of the engine tin. Details are here!

With work, family obligations, household chores and the occasional track day, I don't know when I'll get to do more... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

But when I do, I'll take pictures and update the site!
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Jake Raby
post Jul 8 2008, 03:25 PM
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Rod journals are TI 1600, 2.165 diameter.

This combo is based on my generation 1 2270 and has incredible longevity.
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0396
post Jul 12 2008, 05:05 PM
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Great stuff...thinking building my 1.8 with 96mms.
I've never built nor opened a type 4 before.. so a BIG THANK you!
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LarryR
post Jul 12 2008, 10:02 PM
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Very nice write up. It actually makes me glad that I decided to stay with a type IV for my 914. Really straight forward engine.

Good choice with the 2270 I have only heard good things about those.

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Van
post Sep 29 2008, 09:07 PM
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Howdy gang! It's been a busy summer - I hope it's been going well for everyone.

Mine's been spent traveling, spending time with the family, earning money at my day job, and a little racing. My 914 engine has been sitting gathering dust.

Luckily, I had some free time over the weekend, so I started working on the engine again. I've figured out my valve geometry, valve clearances and deck heights - and updated my website.

http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine

Enjoy!
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