Shift slop: Sudden loss of gears... Options

[kpfoten]

Hi--

I have a '73 914 and today I was driving through the neighborhood and all-of-a-sudden the shifter got even more sloppy than it already was (like I was stirring a spoon in a bowl of cookie-dough). Needless to say, I lost reverse and first, and I think all I really have are 2 and 3 (one forward, one backward)--enough to get home..

Beforehand, I knew the shifting was a little tricky, but I got used to it. Does this sound like a bushing issue rather than an internal issue?

Any help would be appreciated-Thanks!

[ws91420]

If its bushings in the coupler you would only have 2nd and 3rd so it does sound like those. Look at the coupler just to the rear of the firewall. BTW I had it happen accelerating onto the interstate thinking I was going from third to fourth and went into second. Took a while to calm down and figure out what happened,

[kpfoten]

If its bushings in the coupler you would only have 2nd and 3rd so it does sound like those. Look at the coupler just to the rear of the firewall. BTW I had it happen accelerating onto the interstate thinking I was going from third to fourth and went into second. Took a while to calm down and figure out what happened,

Thanks--I'll check it out!

[Cap'n Krusty]

Replace the 2 cone screws with new ones, which are readily available from several sources. One of those sources is the dealership network, and they are likely to have the best price. After that, look at the 2 bushings on the shift rod, the coupler bushings, and the ball cup in the relay lever. The Cap'n

[kpfoten]

Replace the 2 cone screws with new ones, which are readily available from several sources. One of those sources is the dealership network, and they are likely to have the best price. After that, look at the 2 bushings on the shift rod, the coupler bushings, and the ball cup in the relay lever. The Cap'n

Are these cone screws the two that are numbered 23 and 26 on Pelican's diagram?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/Parts/Peda...ge_side_big.htm

[ws91420]

Replace the 2 cone screws with new ones, which are readily available from several sources. One of those sources is the dealership network, and they are likely to have the best price. After that, look at the 2 bushings on the shift rod, the coupler bushings, and the ball cup in the relay lever. The Cap'n

Are these cone screws the two that are numbered 23 and 26 on Pelican's diagram?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/Parts/Peda...ge_side_big.htm

Yes, and the coupler I was refering to is held by 26 cone screw

[kpfoten]

Thanks! Much appreciated.

[kpfoten]

Well, the bushings were non-existant and the firewall grommet was not there. How easy is the pin hammered out? I've got a punch--just tap it out?

Also, any recommended way to put the new bushings in? Just press?

[ws91420]

Pin use PB blaster and you have to be careful you don't deform it. Mine was pretty tight. Once out the busings aren't that bad IIRC. Biggest pain I remember is the pin. Firewall bushing heat it in boiling water to make it pliable (sp) and use a small screwdriver to work it in. Also make sure the orientation of the coupler in relation to the other end of the rod and put it back on that way so you dont have to take it apart twice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[Cap'n Krusty]

Tutorial time! First, remove the cone screws and remove the rear shift rod from the car. Next, remove the bolts holding the shifter assembly in place on the tunnel. DO NOT remove, or even loosen, the clamping bolt at the front of the shift rod. Pull the shifter and front rod as far forward as possible. That makes the bushing accessible. Clean the hole, nuke the bushing in water, and whip it in there. (I have a better way, but it involves tools you probably don't have.) On the bench, support the coupler over a largish socket that fits appropriately, and knock the pin through. Nice to have a helper here. Pay attention to the direction of the hole for the pin (hint: Both pins go in the same direction, so you can look at the other end if you're not sure). Clean it up and install the bushings. Reassemble by carefully knocking the pin into place (until it's centered). Replace the bushing in the shift console on the trans. If it's really loose, you can use JB Weld to take up the gap, but it'll need to sit 24 hours before you can finish the job. NEVER use the 5 minute variety, it doesn't hold up very well. I'm done, go for it! The Cap'n

[Eric_Shea]

I was going to weigh in here with Bushings as that's exactly what happened to me once.

Godspeed with it and listen to the Krusty one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[r_towle]

Tutorial time! First, remove the cone screws and remove the rear shift rod from the car. Next, remove the bolts holding the shifter assembly in place on the tunnel. DO NOT remove, or even loosen, the clamping bolt at the front of the shift rod. Pull the shifter and front rod as far forward as possible. That makes the bushing accessible. Clean the hole, nuke the bushing in water, and whip it in there. (I have a better way, but it involves tools you probably don't have.) On the bench, support the coupler over a largish socket that fits appropriately, and knock the pin through. Nice to have a helper here. Pay attention to the direction of the hole for the pin (hint: Both pins go in the same direction, so you can look at the other end if you're not sure). Clean it up and install the bushings. Reassemble by carefully knocking the pin into place (until it's centered). Replace the bushing in the shift console on the trans. If it's really loose, you can use JB Weld to take up the gap, but it'll need to sit 24 hours before you can finish the job. NEVER use the 5 minute variety, it doesn't hold up very well. I'm done, go for it! The Cap'n

I think at one time the Cap'n also said that a good method, or at least one that works for the firewall bushing is to boil it, then quickly line it up and hit it square with a BFH to pop it in.

rich

[kpfoten]

Great! Thanks!

Looks like the PO was going to do this previously--most of the parts I need are there, minus the cone screws and coupler bushings (ordered!).

Does the firewall bushing install from inside the car or from the engine side?

Can't wait to see how tight my shifter is afterwards!!!

[ws91420]

Engine side

[kpfoten]

Cap'n, can you explain how you punched the pin through to replace the coupler bushings? I'm soaking the whole thing in PB blaster tonight to see if I can get it to budge tomorrow--it seems like it's in there pretty tight. I've got a large-ish punch, and will secure it in a vice...

On a side note, I don't know how I was able to shift previously--every piece of plastic in the linkage is rough... Can't wait to see how it shifts!