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> Will not start, Valve clearance advice needed. modified 1.7
detoxcowboy
post Jun 25 2011, 11:55 AM
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Excuse me, outside of your topic,., Prospect Farms response led me to be believe it was he whom had difficulties.
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poorsche914
post Jun 25 2011, 12:14 PM
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detoxcowboy - we lucked out and found a wire had come loose. Will save the in-depth look at the two relays for a winter project. Thanks for your suggestions and links. They may come in handy in the future.

Car now starts and runs GREAT.
We just wanted to verify the valve clearance for this engine. Settings for a stock 1.7 are .006 for both intake and exhaust. PO had them set at .006 in and .008 exhaust. Wondering if this is correct for this engine which has been modified.
Unfortunately, we don't know what was done to the engine - after PO died, car was donated to a church to sell. No paperwork, etc. 1.7 with dual Webers and ???. Pulls strong. When I get my LE running with a 2.0 we will have to compare the two.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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detoxcowboy
post Jun 25 2011, 12:43 PM
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QUOTE(Prospectfarms @ Jun 25 2011, 08:55 AM) *

QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Jun 25 2011, 02:28 AM) *

Common and re-occuring issue of failing ignition switches due to an EMF pulse that conducts itself back to the igniton switch from starter every time the car is started eventually arcing out the ignition switch./ I have had same isuue twice aboput once a year; and when I bought my 814 it had that Bosch "hot/Hard Start Relay Ugly Relay Dangling, I ditched the realay bought new harness, starter alternator and battery and ignition switch , happened again! left me stranded at a liquor store without warning. Issue had been resolved and I have had no further issues and my car now starts better than ever.. The key is installing a dfiode rectifier that shunts the 350mv EMF pulse from getting back to your switch..



914 World Post of Solution...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...w=&st=&

Where I learned and discovered the faulting 914 desighn issue and why I was using a new switch every year..
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m...tarter_diag.htm


Any electric coil produces a magnetic field when energized. Whenever a switch opens the circuit to this coil the magnetic field "collapses" producing voltage in the field as a" back-current." If the switch is unprotected, the back current tends to arc across the open terminals creating heat and corrosion and eventually burning the switch. A "snubber" diode placed across the circuit diverts the back current away from the switch protecting it.

A diode is a one-way connection (like a check-valve) With the diode placed correctly across the circuit the back-current has an alternative place to go.

The snubber should be placed as close to the coil as possible. It must be "fast" and of sufficient capacity handle the considerable current produced for a split-second by the collapsing field.

This diagram shows the basic snubber circuit. A resistor is on the positive side of the diode, but this is not usually necessary for most 12 volt circuits. Note the position of the diode, which as has been said places the banded end on the positive side. If reversed you are creating a short-circuit!




Dude, your confusing the post with a hijack ... and confusing my input even to me whom is already way ahead of what saying, been through this edjucational proper circuitry lesson previously (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif) and have done and installed and use every day without fail what I sugessted.. You are coorect that proper electrians traing would imply locating said diode closer to the issue and than even further with seporate straight to ground shunting and solder directly to the soleniod, as per whatever.. I am just protecting the switch with this desighn, there has not ever been a shorted circuit. In fact the previous member whom attempted to correct my uinderstanding, later after speaking to his mentor foudn that proper use of the diode is how I installed it but in said circu\mstance with coil basic protocol would be to shunt as close to the coil. with a direct to ground extension.. The goal for me was to protect the switch not stop the emf with a ugly mess of solder and extra exposed wiring..

If stoppingthe EMF were my goall I would open the coil and do so internally as not to have entire messy look of Bosch style relay all over agin..

As you can see that matters to me that improvement apppear factory and are unnoticable, service able by factory pieces and clean and tight evn to detail with factory oem color metric wiring..

No Frankenstien wiring "proper" or not on my 914, I hate that when I see it because what makes sense to the PO usually as in this thread confuses the isuue..
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Haudiosolutions
post Jun 25 2011, 05:50 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
Thanks Steve for your time and help. Cant thank you enough. Thanks to everyone else for the ideas. Car runs great and clutch feels like butter with the new cable. Now it's time for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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poorsche914
post Jun 25 2011, 06:27 PM
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QUOTE(Haudiosolutions @ Jun 25 2011, 07:50 PM) *
Thanks Steve for your time and help. Cant thank you enough. Thanks to everyone else for the ideas. Car runs great and clutch feels like butter with the new cable. Now it's time for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Any time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
And I hope you came by and got your Scion... if not, uhh, it was stolen (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Got all the fuel injection bits back on my car so the top side is done.
Just have to put the bottom side back together now. Should be driving it this week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
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Tom
post Jun 25 2011, 07:36 PM
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Great job guys, you're (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
Tom
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Haudiosolutions
post Jun 25 2011, 07:39 PM
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QUOTE(poorsche914 @ Jun 25 2011, 08:27 PM) *

QUOTE(Haudiosolutions @ Jun 25 2011, 07:50 PM) *
Thanks Steve for your time and help. Cant thank you enough. Thanks to everyone else for the ideas. Car runs great and clutch feels like butter with the new cable. Now it's time for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

Any time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
And I hope you came by and got your Scion... if not, uhh, it was stolen (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Got all the fuel injection bits back on my car so the top side is done.
Just have to put the bottom side back together now. Should be driving it this week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)


Sweet! then we can race! at ummm very responsible speeds obeying all traffic laws.
That sounds boring so maybe we'll go for a drive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) If I get off at reasonable hours I can swing by and give you a hand. Still need to get you the grease.
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Dave_Darling
post Jun 26 2011, 12:52 PM
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Valve clearances are 0.006" for both intake and exhaust. Only the 2.0 engines used 0.008" on the exhaust.

--DD
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Haudiosolutions
post Jun 26 2011, 01:50 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jun 26 2011, 02:52 PM) *

Valve clearances are 0.006" for both intake and exhaust. Only the 2.0 engines used 0.008" on the exhaust.

--DD

Thanks Dave, I'll address that when I do my oil change this week. We left it at .008 on the exhaust.
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