3.0 Project, Still taking it apart Options

[Ferg]

Almost bought a SC with a 3.0 2 weeks ago... Had a full engine build split case ground up build by local reputable shop. FWIW they reused the PC after they checked out, and with only 100 break in miles it has a knock on #5, it was figured that it was the wrist pin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Point being anything that you reuse, double check...

Ferg

[Dr Evil]

I remember when Wayne was researching the book. That was a significant point of confusion and contention; there were a number of sources saying that they could be, and a number saying that they absolutely could not. I think Wayne decided to err on the side of caution.

--DD

Him erring on the side of caution is a load of pure shit. There is a HUGE thread on Pelican about reusing Alusil where we recruited a graduate metallurgist and his scanning electron microscope to study the effects of reconditioning, we recruited the guy who wrote the book for Sunnen on how to do the reconditioning with AD30 paste and stiff felt pads on the machine, we donated cylinders and had them worked with green pads and the recommended AD30 paste and then put them in the SEM.

Initially, Wayne posted in the forum that he would err on the side of new parts (caution). However, once we proved that you can easily and reliably recondition Alusil, WAY easier than Nikasil, Wayne posted that he knew all about that and that is why he chose to do that very procedure on the car engine used in the book (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) That engine ended up in the 82SC bought by my friend James Tomlinson so I sent him a link to the thread where he confronted Wayne, peacefully and jokingly about it.

No need to pay $3k for the P/C. Recondition of mine was $192. How Wayne posted on that topic is one of the 3 reasons I do not care for him (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[J P Stein]

Like any other engine it depends on wall clearances. If you cylinders are .004 over nominal the new rebuild will run but after 5-10K miles you'll be fogging for mosquitoes. Alusil can be reused *IF* they are well within wear specs. If they are on the edge and you hone them.....well, you figure it out. Alusil can be plated with Nikasil, I understand, and brought back to spec....much cheaper than a new set....900 bucks for all 6 last I checked.

Blanket statments suck. Doc prolly don't like me either.

[Dr Evil]

"Blanket statments suck. Doc prolly don't like me either." (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jerkit.gif)

[PanelBilly]

All good information. I'm going to hold off ordering any parts until
I get the thing pulled apart and inspect what I have. One thing for
sure, the engine work needs to fit the effort I've put into the rest
of the project. Here's a reminder of where I started



And what it looks like now (less the interior and bumbers that are also done)



Based on the past, I'm hoping to not rebuild the engine more
than once!

[J P Stein]

One thing for
sure, the engine work needs to fit the effort I've put into the rest
of the project.

I'll bet you will. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Steve Weiner, a Portland fella, hangs on the Pelican 911 engine build forum.
You can make book on his words of advice and has been very responsive to any of my inquires.

[Randal]

All good information. I'm going to hold off ordering any parts until
I get the thing pulled apart and inspect what I have. One thing for
sure, the engine work needs to fit the effort I've put into the rest
of the project. Here's a reminder of where I started



And what it looks like now (less the interior and bumbers that are also done)



Based on the past, I'm hoping to not rebuild the engine more
than once!

Nice work on your restoration. What are the cool looking wheels?

[Randal]

Like any other engine it depends on wall clearances. If you cylinders are .004 over nominal the new rebuild will run but after 5-10K miles you'll be fogging for mosquitoes. Alusil can be reused *IF* they are well within wear specs. If they are on the edge and you hone them.....well, you figure it out. Alusil can be plated with Nikasil, I understand, and brought back to spec....much cheaper than a new set....900 bucks for all 6 last I checked.

Blanket statments suck. Doc prolly don't like me either.

Who does the reconditioning JP?

[J P Stein]

Like any other engine it depends on wall clearances. If you cylinders are .004 over nominal the new rebuild will run but after 5-10K miles you'll be fogging for mosquitoes. Alusil can be reused *IF* they are well within wear specs. If they are on the edge and you hone them.....well, you figure it out. Alusil can be plated with Nikasil, I understand, and brought back to spec....much cheaper than a new set....900 bucks for all 6 last I checked.

Blanket statments suck. Doc prolly don't like me either.

Who does the reconditioning JP?

My quote was from EBS from 3 years back. I had ruint my Nikasils and was considering it ......but then this screamin' deal came up on some NOS 10.5:1 Mahles........
CSOBS can't resist a screamin' deal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[MDG]

Nothing to do with the engine but I have to say, those early brown seats - mahogany I think they called it - look FANTASTIC with that blue!

[EdwardBlume]

I took the Woods and Anderson 911 Engine Overhaul Course and I recall a number of special tools, tricks, and things to watch out for... I'll see if I can find my course book that goes through the entire rebuild process.

[PanelBilly]

The interior has been redone in black leather.
I the dash and all the targa and widow trim were also redone.

I don't remember the name of the wheels. Raydel or something
like that. They fit the wells nicely without spacers and they are
period correct for the car.

[jaxdream]

Nothing to do with the engine but I have to say, those early brown seats - mahogany I think they called it - look FANTASTIC with that blue!

Need some of those clear Italian lenses to set it off !!!!

Jack

[Nie Zu Alt]

You mentioned getting a yoke for your engine stand. You may want to give this fellow a call. I have one for my Type IV's and it's a very sturdy quality piece for a fraction of the price the other big names sell theirs for. He builds them with 3, 4, or 5 arms.

Porsche Engine Stand Yoke

I'll be following this thread with interest.

Doug

[PanelBilly]

Got my cam sprocket tool in the mail so I'm off to the shop to play cars

[maf914]

I don't remember the name of the wheels. Raydel or something
like that. They fit the wells nicely without spacers and they are
period correct for the car.

I am quite sure that the wheels are British RFX Revolutions. I have a set of black center 6.5 x 15 RFX Revolutions on my stock fendered 914. I think PanelBilly's wide silver wheels look good. I bought my wheels in 1991 directly from the Revolution factory. They were very popular with the club racers in England and Europe at the time and pretty common in the US street and street modified road racing series during the 90's, but I think Revolution has cut back on their racing support as I don't see then so often now. Also their web site no longer lists the range of sizes they had in the past. The US distributor seems to have disappeared.

Here is a link to their site:

http://www.revolutionwheels.com/

[Randal]

I don't remember the name of the wheels. Raydel or something
like that. They fit the wells nicely without spacers and they are
period correct for the car.

I am quite sure that the wheels are British RFX Revolutions. I have a set of black center 6.5 x 15 RFX Revolutions on my stock fendered 914. I think PanelBilly's wide silver wheels look good. I bought my wheels in 1991 directly from the Revolution factory. They were very popular with the club racers in England and Europe at the time and pretty common in the US street and street modified road racing series during the 90's, but I think Revolution has cut back on their racing support as I don't see then so often now. Also their web site no longer lists the range of sizes they had in the past. The US distributor seems to have disappeared.

Here is a link to their site:

http://www.revolutionwheels.com/

tks for the link. Their modular wheels are really good looking. I've asked them about weight.

[PanelBilly]

It's catch up time on my thread. Here's my assistant (grandson)
unbolting the heads.




Here's a view of the valves. Doesn't look bad to me.




One of the studs had broken off.




Next the pistons came out




I plan on replacing the CIS pistons

[PanelBilly]

I rigged up a way to hold the flywheel in place while I unbolted it




The back of the case




This clip that came out of the front of the engine




and the part that the clip held in place (whatever it is?)



Now I need to figure out what to do next.


All the bolts holding the case together were found




And thae case opened up




Then the oil pump was removed




And everything was bagged up

[PanelBilly]

Today I worked on the crankshaft. First I bolted the flywheel on
so it would stand up




Then I unbolted the rods




Then I screwed the flywheel to a table and turned it on the side.
That way I could break the pully bolt loose. I tried doing it while it
was in the engine, but couldn't get the leverage. This way I could
step on the breaker bar. Made it easy.




I see some damage on the gear where the distributor meets the
crank. I need to find the box that has the distributor and see what
it looks like.




Looks like its time to do some more homework. I don't know if I
should tear down the heads or leave that to the machine shop. Any-
body have a great recommendation for who should do the machine
work?