HELP: Removing Axle's/CV joints from trailing arms, what tricks or secrets in removing them? I can't get mine off...Grrrr Options

[Mr.242]

Having removed the Engine and Tranny. Prep for the car to head to the paint process. I want to remove and rebuild the axle and CV joints.

I can't get them to come loose. Am I missing something?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

[rwilner]

Assuming you removed the 4 12-star bolts, you can try simply pulling on them. I got mine off this way but had to be very aggressive.

The only other way I know of is to remove the castle nut that connects the stub axle to the hub. Then you can pull the stub axle / CV joint / half shaft off as an assembly and separate them on the bench, which is easy. Removing that whole assembly can be challenging with the trans in place due to clearance issues, but since your drivetrain is removed, removal should be a snap.

Removing that castle nut will require a breaker bar, I think the factory spec is 200 ft lbs (or more). Don't forget to take out the cotter pin first!

good luck, and if you need help servicing your CV joints, search "914 cv joints" on youtube for a pair of videos that are an awesome walkthrough.

[jcd914]

If you remove the stub axles don't roll the car around much. The stub axle holds the bearings tight on the hub. Without the stub axle the bearing races will shift away from each other and ruin the bearings.

Jim

[JRust]

Having removed the Engine and Tranny. Prep for the car to head to the paint process. I want to remove and rebuild the axle and CV joints.

I can't get them to come loose. Am I missing something?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have done some aggressive tapping with a BF rubber mallet. All the while puling the cv in & out aggressivly. Usually it will give. Don't get so aggressive you yank the cv axle out of the bearing case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . I have done that but I think that is pretty rare.

I know you are kind of a lightweight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) . Just give it a little more muscle

[Mr.242]

I am pulling and pounding like crazy on these....won't move.

I have pulled all the bolts.

BF rubber mallet hits. I will keep trying and trying......

Stay tuned! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Elliot Cannon]

I am pulling and pounding like crazy on these....won't move.

I have pulled all the bolts.

BF rubber mallet hits. I will keep trying and trying......

Stay tuned! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Some pictures might help. Show us what you're banging on.

[Mr.242]

Some pictures might help. Show us what you're banging on.

ummm, OKAY.............. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/grouphug.gif)

[Mr.242]

Okay, Okay, Okay.....I couldn't resist.

Here is what I want removed and I can't get them out of the trailing arms. ?

[Cap'n Krusty]

Having removed the Engine and Tranny. Prep for the car to head to the paint process. I want to remove and rebuild the axle and CV joints.

I can't get them to come loose. Am I missing something?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have done some aggressive tapping with a BF rubber mallet. All the while puling the cv in & out aggressivly. Usually it will give. Don't get so aggressive you yank the cv axle out of the bearing case (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . I have done that but I think that is pretty rare.

I know you are kind of a lightweight (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) . Just give it a little more muscle

Using a rubber mallet in this case is like bringing a straw and some spit wads to a gun fight.

The Cap'n

[Mr.242]

So I have asked: What is it that YOU do to get these off. I've tried a couple different tactics. A couple very mean and nasty pulls and hits with BFHammers. Won't come free. I've removed all the bolts.......

So I was asking if anyone had 'secrets' or 'ideas' on what they had doen in the past.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

[nathansnathan]

Okay, Okay, Okay.....I couldn't resist.

Here is what I want removed and I can't get them out of the trailing arms. ?

Here is what I did. It seems possible to do it this way on the car. I'd tried liquid wrench, a torch, and a 1/2" impact socket before this without success. That is a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.914club.com-11782-1315102885.2.jpg)

[TheCabinetmaker]

So I have asked: What is it that YOU do to get these off. I've tried a couple different tactics. A couple very mean and nasty pulls and hits with BFHammers. Won't come free. I've removed all the bolts.......

So I was asking if anyone had 'secrets' or 'ideas' on what they had doen in the past.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Put the car on the ground. Engage parking brake or chock wheels so they won't roll. Remove cotter pin on castellated nut, 4' pipe for cheater bar. Stand on the pipe and jump up and down on. It will loosen eventually. Once its just barely loose, raise the car back up and remove the nut. Turn the nut around and screw it back on till its flush with the end of the axle. Smack it with a BFH. Remove nut and pull the axle and stub axle out. Then its a snap to seperate the cv from the stub axle. DO NOT PUT THE CAR BACK ON THE GROUND WITH THE STUB AXLE OUT. When your done retorque the axle nut to 200 ft lbs and reinsert a NEW cotter key. Bend one side of the key over the end of the nut and the other towards the inside of hub (cut if necessary. This method has never failed me. Good luck.

[rohar]

Just a sec, it isn't quite clear. You trying to remove the half shafts and leave the stub where it is or remove the whole assembled axle?

[rohar]

If you're trying to remove the axle with the stub, I've done the whole put the nut on backward and hit it with a bfh. I spent about an hour slamming it with a 20 lb sledge. It finally came out, but the car would move about 1" with each blow which was more than a little scary. I managed to foul the threads pretty good too so I had to replace the stub.

After that, I decided the passenger side should go differently. One of these and about 30 minutes and it was out:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.dansstang.com-9685-1319812744.1.gif)

Use the round tip and put it in the dimple in the middle of the stub. Shoulder into it and pull the trigger. Repeat until it falls out.

[jimkelly]

mr.242 - firstly congrats ; ))

secondly - have you removed this nut?

i'm assuming yes - and if so - i think this is what you need help with.

stub axle frozen to bearing.

i guess worst case scenario is you beat the shit out of the stub axle and have to replace it.

[stugray]

He is just trying to separate the CV from the stub axle, so the axle does not need to come out.

In fact, I was told (on this forum) that if you pound out the stub from the bearings, you will ruin the bearings.

I dont totally agree with that since my haynes manual actually has a picture of someone driving the axle out with a soft blow hammer.
It does not state that you need to replace the wheel bearings afterward.

Stu

[jcd914]

He is just trying to separate the CV from the stub axle, so the axle does not need to come out.

Some will cring at this but...
After the all the bolts on the outer joint are loose or out I usually just take the inner joint raise it up and slam it down, turn the wheel 90degrees and repeat.
Inner joint pops loose fairly quickly.

Jim

[rjames]

How old are your rear bearings? If you think they haven't been changed out for 30 years, then you might want to go ahead and tear all of it apart and replace those, too.

[TheCabinetmaker]

He is just trying to separate the CV from the stub axle, so the axle does not need to come out.

Some will cring at this but...
After the all the bolts on the outer joint are loose or out I usually just take the inner joint raise it up and slam it down, turn the wheel 90degrees and repeat.
Inner joint pops loose fairly quickly.

Jim

I might just give that a try next time Jim.

[Jeffs9146]

I wrap a comealong around the axel and the trailing arm on the other side. Add tension and tap around the cv edge with a long chisel and hammer. Add more tension and do it again. It will pop off!