It's running better..., Much better, Well even!! Options

[Bob L.]

It was not a dizzy rebuilt thread, it was the thread I opened when I was having the issue.

Here is the Link

Thanks for all the input Paul. This is frustrating, but fun, Can't wait to solve this puzzle.

I still can't get the piece off the bottom of the shaft. I don't want to damage it. Should I just give it a good whack with a pin punch?

[Bob L.]

Progress update...

I have another dizzy from a 1.7. It's a different model # but I swapped out the advance plate for the freshly cleaned and lubed one and dropped it in. After setting the dwell and timing again, there is definitely an improvement. It's not all the way there but better. There is still a little stumble coming off idle, not too bad. once it catches, it wants to jump to about 3000. For slower acceleration, it still wants to hang up around 2000. Just not as bad!

I'm pretty sure I have to stick with this type of diz, but which is the optimal version regarding advance curve, transition off idle and flat spot(lack of)?

Some ?s.
Does the 1.7 diz have a different curve/max advance than the 2.0?
Can the weights/springs be changed to improve "things"?
Are there any Dizzy rebuild threads? I have searched.

Thanks,
Bob.

[Dave_Darling]

Advance specs scraped from the factory manuals:

http://web.archive.org/web/20001119214600/...ch/distrib.html

--DD

[SLITS]

Progress update...

I have another dizzy from a 1.7. It's a different model # but I swapped out the advance plate for the freshly cleaned and lubed one and dropped it in. After setting the dwell and timing again, there is definitely an improvement. It's not all the way there but better. There is still a little stumble coming off idle, not too bad. once it catches, it wants to jump to about 3000. For slower acceleration, it still wants to hang up around 2000. Just not as bad!

I'm pretty sure I have to stick with this type of diz, but which is the optimal version regarding advance curve, transition off idle and flat spot(lack of)?

Some ?s.
Does the 1.7 diz have a different curve/max advance than the 2.0?
Can the weights/springs be changed to improve "things"?
Are there any Dizzy rebuild threads? I have searched.

Thanks,
Bob.

the advance curves are different, but similar enough to work.

Rebuilding a dizzy is more a matter of cleaning and checking function than anything. Centrifugal advance springs can be checked for tension but finding the specification may be hard. Don't know if new parts are available.

Centrifugal advance can be checked by merely hooking a timing light to #1 and starting the engine. From idle, watch the mark move into the window as you slowly accelerate the engine. The movement should be reasonably smooth.

The only other thing in rebuilding a dizzy is replacement of the shaft busing in the housing. It is pressed in an honed to size. A worn shaft allows the point cam to wobble back and forth, changing dwell / timing as it does. One cure without rebuilding is the Petronix, Ignitor, or whatever pointless systems available on the market.

[Bob L.]

Thanks Dave.

Checking the stampings, it looks like they are the same distributor!? I assumed they would not be.
Same #s and all. so I guess I have the correct curve in play.

I'm still not convinced the new one is up to snuff. The shaft feels stable but it makes more noise and isn't as smooth as the old one.

Still hoping I can get the cam off the bottom of the shaft and replace the thrust bushing.
Anyone know about that?
Is the thrust washer part of the distributor rebuild kit? Available by itself? (Cap'n?)

Still could be a TPS issue...? Hmmmmmm...

Damn it!

[914itis]

I have a good working 2.0 dizzy, PM me if you are interested.

[Bob L.]

Update:

Finally got the dizzy reconditioned. All clean and lubed nice.
It helped a bit. not dramatically. It seems more like the old hesitation coming off idle now. I know that as a problem with the 009's. Mine is a "011". Do they have the same issue?

I tried clamping off the fuel line to the 5th injector just to see if it made a difference. Nope.

I took off and cleaned up the TPS. It has remarkably little wear. I put it back.

It also seems better after the engine warms up. Still not very good.
Once it gets going it seems pretty good. If I shift and the rev's drop below 3000. It'll buck a bit. Do I need to keep the rev's up higher? Makes it hard to go slow through the neighborhood.

NEXT!

[Bob L.]

Update:


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)


I decided to start from the beginning again and I'm glad I did.
Two injectors were loose. Huge vacuum leak (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
At least one spark plug wire was faulty. I swapped out for a spare (old) set of wires and tightened the injectors up.


Started right up as easily as I have ever seen AAAAnd the hesitation/bogging is gone

I seem to remember a few of you telling me to check things like that. I wish I did it sooner

Thank you all for your input. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Oh, By the way, where does the oil temp sending lead go to? I know it seems simple but...do I just extend the lead to the gauge?

[Cairo94507]

Very cool. What a satisfying feel to have resolved that issue. Now enjoy driving that baby.

[76-914]

There is a plastic incased female spade fitting just beneath the battery coming off the harness on the shelf. It's easy to miss as it is only a few inch's long.

[Bob L.]

There is a plastic incased female spade fitting just beneath the battery coming off the harness on the shelf. It's easy to miss as it is only a few inch's long.

I'll look for that, Thanks.