what to use?, just oil or sealant or nothing? Options

[jacksun]

hi,

this question is about the push rod tube seals and what to use if anything?

I have read many opinions... still not sure

if I use a sealant like permatex high temp thread sealant,,,,,,,,,,

where would I place it......A or B or not ?

the seals in the image are old and not replaced yet

thank you

r

[StratPlayer]

I just put a little oil on mine on a fresh rebuild, about 3 yrs ago. They have never leaked.

[stugray]

I use loctite 565 teflon thread sealant (NON-hardening)

Dont use silicone whoever needs to take it apart again will be cussing and one drop in the oil pan and you are playing russian roulete.

If you dont have the loctite, just use fresh oil.

[jacksun]

tks for the replies..

the thread on "paint" was good, learning is always good.


still,,,,,,,, I am not sure as to "how" to apply the "Permatex #59214 High

Temperature Thread Sealant with Teflon."

with threads it reads to add a small bead around the third thread as it will

spread out..

no threads on the tube... so which side of the o-ring or on the o-ring??

tks

randal

[stugray]

Both sides. Just coat the oring.
With that stuff, a little too much wont hurt anything

[jacksun]

thank you

[stugray]

The next question should be:

How do these spring thingys go in?

You DO have the tube retention springs right?
When you put the rockers back in, the slot on the clamp faces down.
The springs can go in after the pushrods, but before tightening the rockers down all the way down.

[Dave_Darling]

The lower part of the spring should rest on the shoulders of the tube, and not poke down into the tube. If the spring does poke down the tube, you can use a hook to pull the spring outward, and it should catch on the shoulders of the tube.

Failing to do so can result in a nice notch near the end of your pushrods, ad the steel spring grinds away the aluminum rod.

--DD

[jacksun]

thank you for the info..

I only removed one side at a time......... so I could use the other as a guide.

plus I took pictures....


I got it back together and have removed the drivers side tubes for

cleaning and painting...


have all my tins cleaned up, wire wheeled and painted. heat pieces too,

except for the ss exchangers.

transmission cleaned and painted... 95% of the block cleaned, not painted.


next up after the drivers side push rod tubes is to see if I

can figure out how to set the valves.

I have read many posts on it... still, it is an adventure.

thanks again.

randal

[Elliot Cannon]

These guys built my engine and this is what they use. http://www.fatperformance.com/type4.htm

[Dave_Darling]

So they've been doing it wrong for 30 years... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

--DD

[Elliot Cannon]

So they've been doing it wrong for 30 years... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

--DD

Yep. Quite successfully. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

I use a little plain, ordinary wheel bearing grease to ease assembly. About every 2 years, I replace the seals.

[IronHillRestorations]

I'll 2nd the Loctite 565. It's a tip I got from one of Jake Raby's posts, and it's worked great for me.

[Jake Raby]

I've done it many ways. No matter what method is used, the main issue is the tearing or injury to the seals during install. Many sealants don't just seal, but they are very slippery and make up for situations that would normally tear the tube seals.

The key to using engine oil for assembly of these tubes is to hone the pushrod tube bores in the heads and case until there are no burrs or sharp edges.

IMHO there's only one "wrong way" to install the tubes, and thats any manner that allows for them to become torn during install.

My current favorite for installation of the seals is Dreibond 1248, which we use primarily on M96/M97/DFI Porsche engines as a case sealant. It goes on clear and stays that way. It also doesn't enter the oil system badly and doesn't have huge silicon values that show up in used oil analysis.

I like that its clear, because I don't have to explain to people about why we "do it wrong" when they do their first valve adjustment.

Also, Molybdenum Disulfide assembly lube works in place of grease or oil very well. It is so slippery that tube seals are very difficult to tear. But it'll show up like mad for the first 4-5 used oil analysis.

This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Jul 9 2014, 07:57 AM

[Mark Henry]

I now use DOW Corning Molykote 55 seems to work good.