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> I bought a '73 2.0….
Cal
post Jan 1 2016, 12:50 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Jan 1 2016, 12:27 PM) *

Do nothing but clean and maintain this 73 2.0L, keep it as original as possible. Hack into a lesser quality 914 if you must. Original, high quality 914s are almost all gone.


I have to agree with this......original 914's that aren't rusty or haven't been modified are a rare find in today's world. Please keep it 'as-is'.
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JeffBowlsby
post Jan 1 2016, 01:04 PM
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falcor75
post Jan 1 2016, 01:05 PM
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Nice find !
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brp986s
post Jan 1 2016, 02:40 PM
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Taking apart a good running car is (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . I'll bet you'll be less excited about a 6 after doing it than before. I have a 6 and I'd love to have your black car - as is.
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dlkawashima
post Jan 1 2016, 04:37 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 1 2016, 09:45 AM) *

I've gone over the rear trunk, and I don't see any number stampings. Trunk looks solid, some surface rust, but no numbers.

Hey Lawrence, congrats on the new car! She's a real beauty.

The lack of a chassis number stamping in the rear trunk is a concern. It should be there, in the lower right corner of the trunk (see image below). The lack of a stamping *suggests* some work was done back there. These cars are so prone to rust intrusion along the back edge of the trunk, it wouldn't be a surprise if that portion was replaced.

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Tom_T
post Jan 1 2016, 05:34 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 1 2016, 09:45 AM) *

I'm flipping parts off of my other car onto this black car; the nicer bumpers, smalls, etc. The car was arrow straight beneath the rear bumper. Perfect. This is the case throughout the whole car. Even though there are some dings and small dents on the outer body, (nothing big) I have a feeling that the structure of this car is solid.

Why don't my license light work now? All I did was unplug them, switch bumpers, and re-plug them in.

What is the breakdown of the build numbers on the Karmann plate, so I can figure out the actual build date?

I've gone over the rear trunk, and I don't see any number stampings. Trunk looks solid, some surface rust, but no numbers.


Larry -

I see you got the chassis no. decoder from Jeff, but I agree with Dave that the lack of a trunk floor chassis no. most probably would indicate some rear end rust &/or accident work, & possibly 10+ years ago before folks really worried as much about matching numbers.

That 74 rear bumper substitution is also a clue to this type of work having been done.

I'd suggest a closer look for the chassis no. stamping, cuz the location on the trunk floor varied a bit on cars/MYs - & the paint can easily fill in a shallow stamping, even on a factory paint job.

If it's now there, recontact the PO(s) to see if they had any work done on the rear, & what / when if they know.

IMHO it's not a deal killer if it had been done for either accident &/or rust, so long as it can be documented what/when it was done, & that it wasn't a larger full rear 1/2 clip &/or other more extensive work done.

I would look for a nice 71-73 tit-less rear bumper, & it looks to need new top pads F & R too (Mikey914/914Rubber, AA, NOS) to get those up to snuff over time.

Whatever was done to the rear - if the chassis no. is indeed gone - should be documented if at all possible, & to the extent possible.

If it was an accident repair, then send in an info request form to DMV to see if it has a salvage or rebuilt title or something, as well as to try to get the info. on all of the POs, as well as getting a COA on the car. PCNA will want pix of your GA # on the engine to confirm an original factory 2L, & send them the transaxle # too since it might be one of the few with it written on the Kardex.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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Tom_T
post Jan 1 2016, 05:37 PM
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QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Jan 1 2016, 11:04 AM) *


On Dave Pittman's chart that Jeff shows, IIRC there is one where the 95 = Karmann Plant in Osnabruck (not just 9), but 96 & 97 were used to denote 100th or 200th car built in the day. I think it was in some PCA docs.

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72914wrx
post Jan 1 2016, 07:58 PM
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Put the 6 in it and I'll buy your 2.0 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Larmo63
post Jan 2 2016, 12:03 AM
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The trunk has some surface rust in that corner, but the number is there. I replaced the rear bumper with a nice "tit-less" one that I had on Speedy. Front bumper changed/upgraded today too. I replaced the front lower valance and fixed the fogs. The engine needs a few things addressed, and the heat exchangers are shot. The new muffler helped to identify the exhaust leak in a different area. It will be fun to work on trying to tighten up new pipes to old heads. Nevertheless, I'm driving it to cars n' coffee tomorrow.
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dlkawashima
post Jan 2 2016, 12:19 AM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 1 2016, 10:03 PM) *

The trunk has some surface rust in that corner, but the number is there.

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KELTY360
post Jan 2 2016, 11:27 AM
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Original paint?
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Tom_T
post Jan 2 2016, 01:22 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 1 2016, 10:03 PM) *

The trunk has some surface rust in that corner, but the number is there. I replaced the rear bumper with a nice "tit-less" one that I had on Speedy. Front bumper changed/upgraded today too. I replaced the front lower valance and fixed the fogs. The engine needs a few things addressed, and the heat exchangers are shot. The new muffler helped to identify the exhaust leak in a different area. It will be fun to work on trying to tighten up new pipes to old heads. Nevertheless, I'm driving it to cars n' coffee tomorrow.


Larry,

Glad you rechecked & found it. BTW, you use the VIN sticker year to look up a 1972 calendar, then count all weeks to to get WW - including just 1 day 1/1/72 as first week. Let us know what your build date comes out to be?

My build date came out to 8/31/72 & 8/72 VIN date - so it's the fastest 914 build AFAIK! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

John L. on here on the early 73 Orange 2L he used to own had around VIN #...1100-ish, a Chassis # +/- 10 days before me, but a 9/72 VIN date - go figure! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Our son is still in town last day of leave, before he needs to drive back to Ft. Carson CO, so no C&C this am for me! Sorry to miss the new debut! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

You might think about coming up to Central OC on 3rd Sat. 1/16 8:30-10-ish am for the PCA/OCR's Porsches & Doughnuts at the Orange Krispy Kreme at The Outlets/The Block off the 22 at State College/The City Drive. You can also make it a two-fer with the 6-9 am C&C at Enderle Center same day before that (IIRC they're every Sat. like the original at Ford/De Taco HQ was).

http://www.autokennel.com/AutoKennel/Cars_and_Coffee.html
> this 2/21 date mentioned in the linked webpage was referring to the move there in Feb 2015, but IIRC it's every Sat. am, but you can email or PM Paul Kramer - who is also a member on here now.

Shoot me a PM or email the Friday before Larry, if you every come north for those, & I'll try to swing by to see your new "Black Beauty"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

Since you need HEs, IMHO get a pair of new Dansk made/sold SSI or a used or NOS set of the original SSI Stainless Steel HEs & never worry again! If you want the purist OEM look, then you can always have them painted the Porsche exhaust gray with high temp exhaust paint.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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Tom_T
post Jan 2 2016, 01:30 PM
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QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Jan 2 2016, 09:27 AM) *

Original paint?


Good question Mark.

FYI Larry - if it is original or mostly so, then if it's still 75% original paint & 75% original interior, then you can concours under PCA Zone 8 rules as Originality class.

Also, they did change the rules for 2016 to have a separate 914 Class in Wash & Shine (based on my suggestion) - which the easiest Concours class judging only exterior & interior - if you want to do that, or at least bring your new baby down & display it at our OCR Concours in Dana Point this June (I'll try to get them to drop the price this year as they do in SDR at only $10 - vs. OCR's $30).

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colingreene
post Jan 2 2016, 04:54 PM
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Its a nice car, but its not so nice that i would preserve it.
I Mean if it was the original untouched engine and it was clear none of it had ever been out of the car. maybe.
But this car has seen some miles the bones are good but not enough that would keep me from sticking a six in it and flipping the bird to purists.
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Beach914
post Jan 2 2016, 06:38 PM
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Nice find Lawrence. Sorry I missed you at Cars&Coffee today. Look forward to seeing it.
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Dave_Darling
post Jan 2 2016, 07:02 PM
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QUOTE(Tom_T @ Jan 2 2016, 11:22 AM) *

John L. on here on the early 73 Orange 2L he used to own had around VIN #...1100-ish, a Chassis # +/- 10 days before me, but a 9/72 VIN date - go figure! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


The VIN stamps and date stamps and such were not done on a one-by-one basis as the cars rolled off the line. They were done in batches, and cars could be sent back before winding up getting sent back for re-work before making it to where the VIN was issued. That's one of the reasons why there is only a rough correlation between chassis #s and VINs.

--DD
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Larmo63
post Jan 2 2016, 07:16 PM
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My car was built on August 21st, 1972. #78 of that day.

Engine #GA1000501

It is not a concourse car, but I will do it proud. I had Yokohamas mounted
on it today, 205/60 x 15. Suspension is still complete shit, compared to Speedy.
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colingreene
post Jan 3 2016, 12:16 AM
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Did you swap the tyres from speedy to this car? why?
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Tom_T
post Jan 3 2016, 12:45 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jan 2 2016, 05:02 PM) *

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Jan 2 2016, 11:22 AM) *

John L. on here on the early 73 Orange 2L he used to own had around VIN #...1100-ish, a Chassis # +/- 10 days before me, but a 9/72 VIN date - go figure! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


The VIN stamps and date stamps and such were not done on a one-by-one basis as the cars rolled off the line. They were done in batches, and cars could be sent back before winding up getting sent back for re-work before making it to where the VIN was issued. That's one of the reasons why there is only a rough correlation between chassis #s and VINs.

--DD


Dave - not to fear, I offered Joh's varied build date as an example of what you're pointing out .... & it's said in jest that my 914 was the fastest build in one day! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Tom_T
post Jan 3 2016, 12:58 AM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Jan 2 2016, 05:16 PM) *

My car was built on August 21st, 1972. #78 of that day.

Engine #GA1000501

It is not a concourse car, but I will do it proud. I had Yokohamas mounted
on it today, 205/60 x 15. Suspension is still complete shit, compared to Speedy.


Lawrence - don't let the "Concours" in the PCA Zone 8's Concours put you off - it's really just cleaning, prep & detailing contest to present a car in it's present condition well for the judges.

And if you're not into the clean/prep/detail rigmarole, then just display it.

Also, the 1st Sat Feb 2016 OCR "Breakfast Club" at Original Mike's in Santa Ana is featuring the 914s - along with 924/944/968 & 928 cars on display in their "Porsche Alley" - & breakfast buffet was $24 per couple/$12 per person last I went, so not a bad deal. Andy Thonet's 914-6 was featured in Pandomonium pg. 43 from the December breakfast & represented us well (but I haven't heard whether or not he has the Aug, accident damage fixed yet).

IIRC my GA motor is in the 439-ish earlier than your 501, but VIN ...1954 is later & chassi build date is 10 days later, & your build date/chassis no. is really close to John L's orange 73 2L, but I don't recall it either (my pix & docs are locked up in my semi-functional old laptop for now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) ).

Again - dates & numbers with the stipulations noted by Mr. Darling above.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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