Rust proofing rear wheel wells, I have questions Options

[bbrock]

@john77 - I would seal that up the best way you can. I will look at my build photos and see if I have a photo from that perspective to see what we did. But I am sure it is not open like that. Kent, after the sealer, sprayed the semi-flexible rock protector on the entire underside of my car (body shutz) before color, so it is all sealed and painted.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) but treat the inside before closing it up (see below), and make sure you leave weep holes so moisture that condenses inside that cavity can drain out. Where I live, mud dabbers will climb inside that cavity and build mud nests if it is left open like that.

+1 on Eastwood internal frame coating. Bear in mind that I am traumatized from the horrors I saw and fixed restoring my car, but I throw just about everything at the problem I can. Everything was blasted down to, or replaced by, clean metal. For enclosed cavities, I painted with epoxy, then shot Eastwood internal frame coating inside followed by 3M Cavity Wax Plus (I don't know why people don't use cavity wax more. It is wonderful stuff). For wheel wells, undercarriage etc. two coats of epoxy primer followed with Raptor bed liner and plenty of flexible seam sealer.

On everything, I paid close attention to drains and weep holes to make sure they remained clear. A lot of the more serious rust issues I had looked like they were caused by the dealer applied undercoating being sprayed thick over these critical weep holes and trapping condensed moisture inside.

[930cabman]

I plan on removing the asphalt based undercoating from all areas and painting the whole car (top/bottom/everything) with Marathon Blue. I have been using Dow Corning 756 paintable silicone with foam backer rod where necessary for areas needing filler. #1 is having the surfaces clean and dry prior to application of anything. In my business we have glued buildings together with silicones. We must remember, out cars are 50 years old.

I keep our sporting machines garaged all winter and do not take any of them out in the rain. Chances are very low we can ever get 100% of the rust out of our cars, but if we do not feed the rust with moisture, it will not grow (much)

[john77]

Thanks Brent.

I ordered some raptor spray-on bedliner yesterday, so the wheel wells and underneath the rocker panels will now be getting a coating of that too.

Is there a trick to removing the factory foam from inside the sail panel? I already have a couple of cans of Eastwood internal frame rail coating left over from when I did my 2002, so I figure I'll spray some of that up in there, although I obviously need to remove the 50 year old decaying foam first.

@john77 - I would seal that up the best way you can. I will look at my build photos and see if I have a photo from that perspective to see what we did. But I am sure it is not open like that. Kent, after the sealer, sprayed the semi-flexible rock protector on the entire underside of my car (body shutz) before color, so it is all sealed and painted.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) but treat the inside before closing it up (see below), and make sure you leave weep holes so moisture that condenses inside that cavity can drain out. Where I live, mud dabbers will climb inside that cavity and build mud nests if it is left open like that.

+1 on Eastwood internal frame coating. Bear in mind that I am traumatized from the horrors I saw and fixed restoring my car, but I throw just about everything at the problem I can. Everything was blasted down to, or replaced by, clean metal. For enclosed cavities, I painted with epoxy, then shot Eastwood internal frame coating inside followed by 3M Cavity Wax Plus (I don't know why people don't use cavity wax more. It is wonderful stuff). For wheel wells, undercarriage etc. two coats of epoxy primer followed with Raptor bed liner and plenty of flexible seam sealer.

On everything, I paid close attention to drains and weep holes to make sure they remained clear. A lot of the more serious rust issues I had looked like they were caused by the dealer applied undercoating being sprayed thick over these critical weep holes and trapping condensed moisture inside.

[mlindner]

Sorry John missed your question. Its Polyethene rolls 1/8 this used for splinters and air dams from Speedway Motors. Easy to cut, heat and bend. One 25 foot rolls does all four fenders. I did send my templates to Ben (mb911) for his 914-6, maybe he's making them. Mark

[Mikey914]

We actually make these as a kit. Utilizing HDPE as its more impact resistant.
Got them right here

https://914rubber.com/search/?q=fender%20liner

Would be happy to make specific for the 6 if you want us to. Just need an accurate template as I don't have one to check against.

Mark

[bkrantz]

On my restoration/build, we dug all that foam out of the rear corners.
The entire underside of my car is coated in body color Raptor bed liner....including the fender wells and where that foam was sitting.
This Raptor is like granite, so should really hold up to debris and moisture.

On top of that, I just finished installing fender liners that are easily removable....couple minutes for each.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...amp;hl=raynekat

I used hex headed screws instead of the supplied rivets for easy removal.
When you need to inspect, it's a snap.

That's my plan: fender liners set up to be "easily" removed. I expect some water and dirt will get swept into the various cavities, but it will not be a constant blast direct from the tires.

[mb911]

I made my own liners and happy with them so far.

[john77]

Thanks @mlindner

I definitely plan on doing this. I've stripped all four wheel wells now have three of the flares finished and the insides coated with POR15. Once the fourth is done (hopefully 2 weeks from now) I'm going to scuff all the POR15 and spray them all with raptor bedliner and finish off with your wheel well liner idea.

Do your front wheels rub at all on full lock? Just pushing the car around to move it I've noticed they start to feel "egg-shaped" near full lock. not sure if it's from rubbing or something else, the old fronts were set up with pretty aggressive camber to fit the 16x7s so i may need to readjust the front suspension.

Sorry John missed your question. Its Polyethene rolls 1/8 this used for splinters and air dams from Speedway Motors. Easy to cut, heat and bend. One 25 foot rolls does all four fenders. I did send my templates to Ben (mb911) for his 914-6, maybe he's making them. Mark

[mlindner]

John77, if you'd like I can send you a paper template of each wheel well as a start point. With flares all liners will be a little different. I'm also going to add a rubber cowl seal around the edges to keep all water out. Mark

[john77]

That would be super helpful, thanks Mark!

John77, if you'd like I can send you a paper template of each wheel well as a start point. With flares all liners will be a little different. I'm also going to add a rubber cowl seal around the edges to keep all water out. Mark