Another Djet problem, and I know you know the answer Options

[bd1308]

Those points look worn out... toss em and get a pertronix or crane points replacement.
From the pic the cam block looks like it s gone. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

No more help from me until I see a bigger avatar pic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif)

Or how about just buying new points? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Dr Evil]

I trust Geoff's assessment that the cam is gone in the dizzy, I can see how it looks that way. This would make new points useless (thought I would say pointless (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ). I am with the pertronix crowd. Do a search on ebay, and google. I know I have seen them for around $60 reacently.

[BahnBrenner914]

Hold on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) you're telling me there's an entire part missing???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Points and condenser are under $10 a piece, which is my kind of parts pricing, so I'll call and see if my local guys have them and I can put them in today.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) and then hopefully not (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Bleyseng]

looks like the cam block (circled) on the points is worn out or gone. Get new points, set them to .016 gap when the cam block is at the high lobe of the dizzy shaft.
Retime the motor using a timing lite

also CLEAN OFF AL THAT GREASY GRIME OFF THE ENGINE!
It will run cooler.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chairfall.gif)

[SirAndy]

CLEAN OFF AL THAT GREASY GRIME OFF THE ENGINE!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) that's mighty dirty! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

[BahnBrenner914]

CLEAN OFF AL THAT GREASY GRIME OFF THE ENGINE!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) that's mighty dirty! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

What can I say, I like it dirty (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[BahnBrenner914]

Alright, so I went and got a pertronix and installed it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) , havent driven it around (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) , but it started with no catastrophic problems (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif) , so we'll see what happens when I take it for a spin and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) gun it

Also, could fuel be causing the WOT problems. I'm sure the fuel is old and gunky and I think my dad put alcohol in there to clean it out.

[Dr Evil]

Didja time it?

Alcohol, to clean out the fuel? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Not sure about that.

[r_towle]

What is the timing set at now?
Does the vacuum advance on the distributor work, and is it still hooked up?
I think earlier you may have unplugged the vacuum advance and left it off.
The vacuum advance is the canister that is attached to the distributor.
follow the hose that goes from there, if its plugged in, unplug it and suck on it while you are looking inside the distributor, and you need to hold a cold german beer in you right hand, stand on one foot a suck hard.

You should see the little arm connected to the vacuum advance canister will move, and turn the advance plates inside the distributor.
It should be pretty easy to make that happen.
If its to hard you may need to clean the insides of the distributor.

Also, you need to possibly clean the throttle body switch.
Also, suck on the larger hose that comes off the MPS, not to much, but see if you can make your tongue stick to the hose, and that will prove that the MPS can hold a vacuum.

Rich

[BahnBrenner914]

Ok, so I just went out with it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and when it was cold it pulled really well, no signs of balking or anything all the way up to 5000 rpm. But after about another mile, it started to buck and kick some when I really put my foot in the gas and by the time I was on my way back to the house, it was spitting, sputtering, and backfiring here and there.

So to keep her moving, I had to keep the peddle moving until it felt like giving me some power (generally at lower throttle) and when I just floored it, it went nowhere at all. And all this isnt predictable, the right peddle position to get power moved around and it would have no power anywhere for a block and then I'd turn the corner and it would have power in a couple places, but definately not at WOT. Generally, it runs well cold, but the more it heats up, the less power I get the more throttle I give it.

I havent timed it yet, that's for after dinner. And I can't find any of the impeller markings to reference and get it timed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[r_towle]

ok, well, you need to clean the inside of the distributor, but the good news is it will only cost you $0.05 of grease, and time.

Let me go find the link to the howto.

Rich

[r_towle]

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...tributor++clean

[TheCabinetmaker]

Ok, so I just went out with it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and when it was cold it pulled really well, no signs of balking or anything all the way up to 5000 rpm. But after about another mile, it started to buck and kick some when I really put my foot in the gas and by the time I was on my way back to the house, it was spitting, sputtering, and backfiring here and there.

So to keep her moving, I had to keep the peddle moving until it felt like giving me some power (generally at lower throttle) and when I just floored it, it went nowhere at all. And all this isnt predictable, the right peddle position to get power moved around and it would have no power anywhere for a block and then I'd turn the corner and it would have power in a couple places, but definately not at WOT. Generally, it runs well cold, but the more it heats up, the less power I get the more throttle I give it.

I havent timed it yet, that's for after dinner. And I can't find any of the impeller markings to reference and get it timed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

have you did an Ohms test on the cht?

[BahnBrenner914]

What is the timing set at now?
Does the vacuum advance on the distributor work, and is it still hooked up?
I think earlier you may have unplugged the vacuum advance and left it off.
The vacuum advance is the canister that is attached to the distributor.
follow the hose that goes from there, if its plugged in, unplug it and suck on it while you are looking inside the distributor, and you need to hold a cold german beer in you right hand, stand on one foot a suck hard.

You should see the little arm connected to the vacuum advance canister will move, and turn the advance plates inside the distributor.
It should be pretty easy to make that happen.
If its to hard you may need to clean the insides of the distributor.

Also, you need to possibly clean the throttle body switch.
Also, suck on the larger hose that comes off the MPS, not to much, but see if you can make your tongue stick to the hose, and that will prove that the MPS can hold a vacuum.

Rich

I checked both vacuums you suggested, the MPS checked out. The distributor hose was a little loose at each end, just stretched out from being on the nipples so long, so I clipped off the ends and reattached them (much tighter now) and sucked and the advance plates moved in the distributor, but i'm going to clean it a little and see what that does, maybe replace the old vacuum hose, cause it's real old and hard.

How would this affect the car over temperature change? I dont see how the vacuum advance would be affected by a different temperature. you've piqued my engineering curiosity.

[r_towle]

Did you read the how to clean it link I posted?
The 30 year old grease between the plates is like Glue at this point.

When the distributor gets hot, the plates sieze.
It take an hour or two, but it should move very freely.

I do however agree that you might want to check out the CHT (cylinder Head Temp sensor) with an Ohm meter.
Take two readings, one hot and one cold.
If that is going, your symtoms will change around alot, so its hard to track.

Rich

[BahnBrenner914]

I do however agree that you might want to check out the CHT (cylinder Head Temp sensor) with an Ohm meter.
Take two readings, one hot and one cold.
If that is going, your symtoms will change around alot, so its hard to track.

I'll clean out the distributor tomorrow (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) and see if I can get those plates to move better. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)

Where is the CHT? Are the terminals obvious to check with a multimeter? And what kind of Ohms should I be getting out of it?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) the resistance would change with temp, true (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Dr Evil]

When the CHT is hot the MPS is fully in the circuit. I am thinking your MPS hose needs to be replaced as well if your CHT checks out. The temp thing usually means a fuel mixture issue. It is changing as the engine gets warm as this is what the system is designed to do, but if it does not do so correctly then you get the problems you describe and need to start checking the system piece by piece. Pretty much, at this point any improvement you do will be a good thing. Fixing your dizzy may not chase away all of the demons, but it will preemt other problems from complicating unknow preexisting ones. Compunding effect. If your ignition is in good shape then you only have to worry about fuel, right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Oh, you need to read this site tonight:
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/

Go through the D-jet stuff and experience 914 enlightenment!

[BahnBrenner914]

Ok, so I just tested the ohms on the CHT. I had to take the charcoal canister off to get in there with the hack-job wiring they had before and found the fuse? on the sensor wire. I hooked up the neg of the multimeter on the neg of the battery and measured the CHT with nothing on... about 3000 ohm. And then I started the car and it ran alright for a min then started hunting (idle) some and when I put the probe on the CHT to see if there was any difference, the car died (coincidence, i dont know). So i let it warm up some more and the idle kind of hunted and then dropped and shuttered and then came back up, now regardless of what I was doing with the meter. The CHT was reading about 75 ohm now (not fully warm but running for several minutes).

so... The CHT doesnt look like it's going haywire (from what I read, thanks Evil). I think I'm going to go pick up some new vacuum hoses and replace the couple I havent yet. And when dad gets back, we'll check the timing.

[Dr Evil]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) Sounds like CHT is good. Hunting usualy = vac leaks. You can check for these with a propane torch (not lit of course). You can let the gas leak out slowly and place the nozzle in different parts of the engine looking for a rise in RPMs. Always good to have an extinguisher handy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

When your car is cold it runs rich so there is less of an issue with extra air leaking in, when it warms up the mixture leans out and the extra air is too much for it and you get what you are seeing. <typically>