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> '73 2.0, a yellow storage unit find
arne
post Sep 12 2017, 09:29 PM
Post #265


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I've started making a punch list of items that I need (or in some cases, want) to address before I feel it'll be ready to sell. I will add to and edit this list as time goes on.
  • Refit all heater parts, one new hose
  • New bearing in steering column
  • Address pressure leak in windshield washer
  • Regulate clock (runs fast)
  • Install new interior light
  • Steering wheel grip slips - repair
  • Cover steering wheel grip, leather
  • Replace horn pad mushroom
  • Replace rear seal on targa top
  • Repair rear defroster connector tab
  • Repair rear defroster grid
  • AGM battery and hold down
  • Replace door switches
  • Re-check valve adjustment & timing
  • Recover console
  • Replace strut inserts to cure clunk, rear shocks to match
  • Replace heater fan blower motor
  • Reattach rearview mirror
  • Repaint and install rocker panel covers
  • Wax car
  • Miscellaneous detailing
And notable things that I am (probably) going to leave for the next owner:
  • New bumpers
  • New tires
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arne
post Sep 17 2017, 03:42 PM
Post #266


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As I continue to wrap up various parts, I've been driving the car a bit more the past few days to help identify areas of concern. Mostly seems ok so far. The only real thing I've found so far is that there may be a slight clunk in the front suspension on rough road surfaces. Sounds to me like either one of the struts, or more likely a bad sway bar link bushing. Will explore that soon.

Other than that, it seems pretty good. It drives nicely, the engine runs fine, transmission shifts well. The transmission does make some raspy sounds at times, but overall it is probably quieter than the 915 in my Carrera.
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ConeDodger
post Sep 17 2017, 05:15 PM
Post #267


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Check your shock nuts in the trunk. Hard to get a socket on them and I've seen them loosen up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
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arne
post Sep 18 2017, 10:35 AM
Post #268


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QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Sep 17 2017, 04:15 PM) *

Check your shock nuts in the trunk. Hard to get a socket on them and I've seen them loosen up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Would that it were that simple, Rob. Clunk appears to be in the RF strut itself. Digging in deeper now.
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ConeDodger
post Sep 18 2017, 10:52 AM
Post #269


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QUOTE(arne @ Sep 18 2017, 01:35 PM) *

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Sep 17 2017, 04:15 PM) *

Check your shock nuts in the trunk. Hard to get a socket on them and I've seen them loosen up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Would that it were that simple, Rob. Clunk appears to be in the RF strut itself. Digging in deeper now.


Yikes. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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arne
post Sep 18 2017, 02:32 PM
Post #270


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Unfortunately, it is the RF strut insert. I was hoping not to have to replace the struts and shocks, I really like the ride/handling combo of those old red Konis. But while all 4 had consistent resistance through the entire stroke before, now that I have begun driving the car, the bad one feels good through the lower 40% of the travel, but suddenly no resistance toward the top. If I lowered the front ride height a little, it might clunk less often than now, but that ain't right.

Reviewing the choices now. I see only 5 options:
  1. New KYB are out, they are affordable but (IMG:style_emoticons/default/post-2-1117899824.gif)
  2. I don't feel Koni yellow are the best choice for stock bars and the 100# springs on the back.
  3. Bilstein HD/B6 are good, but not cheap.
  4. Would consider OEM Sachs if I could find them, but they'd probably cost almost as much as the Bilsteins.
  5. Not feeling too good about finding decent used Koni reds (82R-1730), but it might be a possibility. First I'd need to hunt them down, then hope they were better than what I have.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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mepstein
post Sep 18 2017, 02:45 PM
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Arne - I’ll sell you a pair of brand new, oem Sachs front inserts for $150 shipped. Mark
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mepstein
post Sep 18 2017, 02:47 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 18 2017, 04:45 PM) *

Arne - I’ll sell you a pair of brand new, oem Sachs for $150 shipped. Mark


And for another $50, I’ll include good used Sachs rears shipped.
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arne
post Sep 18 2017, 05:35 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 18 2017, 01:47 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 18 2017, 04:45 PM) *

Arne - I’ll sell you a pair of brand new, oem Sachs for $150 shipped. Mark


And for another $50, I’ll include good used Sachs rears shipped.

Seems like a good option for an essentially stock car, Mark. PM coming your way.
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ConeDodger
post Sep 18 2017, 05:46 PM
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Koni still rebuilding them?
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arne
post Sep 18 2017, 05:56 PM
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QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Sep 18 2017, 04:46 PM) *

Koni still rebuilding them?

Some disagreement on that. Some say they still can, others note that they no longer do the old red single-adjust units.

In any case, the cost to rebuild (if they still do them) would exceed the cost of the units Mark has offered. Can probably buy new Bilsteins for what it would cost to rebuild them. For a stock car, the Sachs are probably the better option.
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euro911
post Sep 18 2017, 06:00 PM
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Yes, they do ... http://www.koniracing.com/services.cfm
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arne
post Sep 18 2017, 08:08 PM
Post #277


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Got in touch with Mark, he has the new front Sachs inserts, and a pair of good used shocks to match, but no rear spring perches for them. So looking for either a pair of perches, or other rear options. Really don't want to mismatch the dampers front and rear.
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ConeDodger
post Sep 18 2017, 09:23 PM
Post #278


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QUOTE(arne @ Sep 18 2017, 08:56 PM) *

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Sep 18 2017, 04:46 PM) *

Koni still rebuilding them?

Some disagreement on that. Some say they still can, others note that they no longer do the old red single-adjust units.

In any case, the cost to rebuild (if they still do them) would exceed the cost of the units Mark has offered. Can probably buy new Bilsteins for what it would cost to rebuild them. For a stock car, the Sachs are probably the better option.


I agree. I seem to recall that Koni's rebuild facility is located pretty close to my shop in Sonoma...
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arne
post Sep 19 2017, 08:54 AM
Post #279


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I had a pair of Bilstein inserts rebuilt 12 or so years back. Cost more than most new ones. But it was worth it in that case, they were custom-valved Alpina inserts based on normal Bilsteins that were also NLA.

That is the only case I'd think about rebuilding for a street car - if there were no correct new options available at all.
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arne
post Sep 19 2017, 08:53 PM
Post #280


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I’ve been checking a few things off of the punch list above (post #265), but keep adding more as I go. But most are not major items, the end is - maybe not in sight yet, but not far around the corner. Waiting on a few parts now.
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arne
post Sep 20 2017, 11:48 AM
Post #281


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I’ve got the shock/strut situation figured out thanks to Mark and Craig. Will be a bit before they all arrive, but only a few hours work to install. Thanks, gentlemen.
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arne
post Sep 20 2017, 12:29 PM
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QUOTE(arne @ Sep 7 2017, 06:34 PM) *
QUOTE(914 7T3 @ Sep 7 2017, 05:16 PM) *
Looking good Arne! The car is so clean, you should already have a few World Members lined up to buy it.
No, no one is lined up to buy it so far. But I suspect that it may not be clear to most of the World that I will be putting it up for sale as soon as I'm convinced it is ready. A few of you understand that, as we've chatted about it in person or on the phone.
Well, the word that the car will be for sale in a few weeks must be spreading, I've been contacted by a few parties expressing some interest. Since this build thread is a decent record of my progress, and also provides some insight into my philosophy, approach and goals, I will be adding some additional pictures, details and descriptions of different aspects of the car to the thread as time allows. Probably starting later tonight.
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arne
post Sep 21 2017, 11:23 AM
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Realized I hadn't posted the most recent pictures here yet. Still plenty of small items left on the punch list (link in my signature), but getting close now.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20799-1505963452_thumb.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20799-1505963471_thumb.jpg)

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arne
post Sep 21 2017, 09:02 PM
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Finally tested the repaired rear window defroster (after the relay that the car was missing arrived today). It works!! Well, after a fashion, I suppose. Can’t expect it to work like a modern car. But a bit of fog applied by breathing on it while switched on does start to clear at the grid lines and goes from there. Calling it good.

This is actually a bigger thing than it seems, at least to me. I dislike selling cars with disclaimers about things that don’t work. I want EVERYTHING to work when I’m done.

Well, almost everything. I normally don’t fix the door and seat belt buzzers, if they still exist. I hate those things...
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