 Where there's smoke... |
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| bandjoey |
 Oct 22 2009, 07:25 PM
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#21
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bandjoey  Group: Members Posts: 4,935 Joined: 26-September 07 From: Bedford Tx Member No.: 8,156 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
You might Get a set of LED while you're at it. It increased my instrument lighting by 100%.
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| Mikey914 |
Oct 22 2009, 07:44 PM
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#22
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,772 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None 
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The LEDs run on 2.7 volts, so if your grounds are not 100% you may only be getting 10v to your lights. With an incondecent bulb, it will burn yellow. An LED will be full spectrum and make the gages look white instead of yellow.
Just some food for thought. |
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| Mikey914 |
Oct 22 2009, 07:55 PM
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#23
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The rubber man Group: Members Posts: 12,772 Joined: 27-December 04 From: Hillsboro, OR Member No.: 3,348 Region Association: None
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This is the same set of gages in Mikey's car, you can really see the difference.
Attached image(s) 
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| JazonJJordan |
Oct 22 2009, 08:08 PM
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#24
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Member Group: Members Posts: 340 Joined: 6-June 09 From: Atlanta-Augusta, Georgia area Member No.: 10,446 Region Association: South East States |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) hhummm...
QUOTE(neil30076 @ Oct 22 2009, 06:45 PM)  QUOTE(bandjoey @ Oct 22 2009, 03:21 PM) U Electrical Mechanics can chime in on this: Was told the LEd in the Alternator light position will cause the alt not to charge. Correct, an LED is a low current light emitting device, and will not allow the required current to flow for the exciter circuit of the alternator, the alternator light must be a regular old fashioned bulb, 2 Watt, IIRC. |
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| kenshapiro2002 |
Oct 22 2009, 08:29 PM
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#25
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,472 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Shocked...even I solder (then shrink wrap) and I'm a Rookie !
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 22 2009, 10:46 AM) QUOTE(flipb @ Oct 21 2009, 06:25 PM) Interesting. There are two green & white wires. Both come out of the bundle in my second picture. The one that goes to the right goes to the tach, and I presume is for the high beam indicator - which does not work. This one is white with green bands every couple inches. Check the wire diagram on your haynes manual. It will tell you exactly what wire it is. Then cut all out all the burned section, use a butt connector to put in the new length of wire, and heat shrink rap the butt connector and an inch or two of wire to either side. Then use some non-black electrical tape and a sharpie marker to make a flag near the terminal that states what the wire is for future reference. This is the non-DAPO (and also the "I don't want a flaming car") way to fix the issue. And, yeah. Check the circuit. Zach |
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| flipb |
Oct 22 2009, 08:55 PM
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#26
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,859 Joined: 2-September 09 From: Fairfax, VA Member No.: 10,752 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 22 2009, 10:29 PM) Shocked...even I solder (then shrink wrap) and I'm a Rookie ! Ken, there's a whole thread out there that undermines your claim to be a rookie when it comes to matters electrical. I have a $5 soldering iron... might give it a shot. |
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| kenshapiro2002 |
Oct 22 2009, 09:04 PM
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#27
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,472 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Well...I was a Rookie three weeks ago. Now I'm a freakin' expert. At least on:
* Rebuilding Weber IDF 40s * Electrical Gremlins * Weltmeister Sway Bar Bushings * BBS three piece wheel rebuilding and refinishing * Odometer Repair (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) QUOTE(flipb @ Oct 22 2009, 10:55 PM) QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 22 2009, 10:29 PM) Shocked...even I solder (then shrink wrap) and I'm a Rookie ! Ken, there's a whole thread out there that undermines your claim to be a rookie when it comes to matters electrical. I have a $5 soldering iron... might give it a shot. |
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| VaccaRabite |
Oct 23 2009, 10:18 AM
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#28
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,831 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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different schools of thought.
Some say that soldering could lead to premature failure due to vibrations found in vehicles flexing the solder. Others say that is BS. I have a little of both on my car, but connectors are easier to install for me then soldering. |
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| kenshapiro2002 |
Oct 23 2009, 10:43 AM
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#29
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,472 Joined: 23-July 09 From: Bawlmer, MD Member No.: 10,598 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Yeah...I've had mechanical connections come loose and corrode, but yet to have a properly soldered and shrink wrapped joint fail.
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Oct 23 2009, 12:18 PM) different schools of thought. Some say that soldering could lead to premature failure due to vibrations found in vehicles flexing the solder. Others say that is BS. I have a little of both on my car, but connectors are easier to install for me then soldering. |
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