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> Resealing HF blast cabinet, Need recommendations
biosurfer1
post Oct 27 2009, 10:09 PM
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I did a search but couldn't find anything, though I know someone here mentioned resealing the Harbor Freight blast cabinet.

I bought one last night and am in the process of putting it together. I have read the sealing they do at the factory is crap and I figure I'll just change the seals while its apart.

What type of seals would be best? A better foam seal? Liquid seals?

I have been using a free air blaster a little bit which has worked great and is a ton of fun, however very messy so I'm really looking forward to a contained unit.

Any other advice before its all put together would be great.

BTW, anyone interested, the unit I bought (This one) is on sale for $219 in store, couple that with one of the 20% off coupons in a car mag and you get out the door for a little over $190...not too shabby
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Gint
post Oct 27 2009, 10:19 PM
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Same one I've had for 10 years almost. I had to rearrange some of he seals, but I didn't have to get any new seals to get it sealed up. The hopper latch took some tweaking to get it to seal up well. They may have changed it by now, but originally your hose was just supposed to go through the hole in front of the cabinet. So I attached a swivel whip hose to the inside of the cabinet with a couple of washers and a rubber washer in between and then male plug on the outside of the cabinet. A little tweaking and it's performed well for years. Not bad for $200 which was all it cost me even with the added whip hose and hardware.
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quadracerx
post Oct 27 2009, 10:27 PM
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Hi....

I have one of those too...but havent put it together yet...But post some pics when you figure out the seal situation....

Also..Gint...im trying to visuallize the hose setup you mention....

"So I attached a swivel whip hose to the inside of the cabinet with a couple of washers and a rubber washer in between and then male plug on the outside of the cabinet."

Got a picture for us old feable folks...LOL

Thanks...

Steve
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biosurfer1
post Oct 27 2009, 11:07 PM
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Steve,


I'll take a couple pics tomorrow of the seals... luckily, there arn't too many of them, but they can be a pain if they leak. Nothing like a cloudy garage.

So far, its been very easy to put together, just dont want to have to take it back apart to re-do the seals.
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ConeDodger
post Oct 28 2009, 01:57 AM
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Brett,
The leak isn't terrible. But I do have a bit of glass bead on the floor so it is there...
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zymurgist
post Oct 28 2009, 06:15 AM
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I used asphalt caulk on all the inside corners of mine. I'm not really sure what to do about the door seal, though. I have the small cabinet that I just set up on saw horses just outside the garage whenever I need to use it.
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IronHillRestorations
post Oct 28 2009, 07:16 AM
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You can get some self adhesive foam to seal the door or top. There's a few different widths and thickness. ACE, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 28 2009, 01:24 PM
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You could stuff all that money you "saved" by not buying one that didn't need repairs BEFORE you put it together into all the seams ..........................

The Cap'n
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914Sixer
post Oct 28 2009, 02:39 PM
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I used clear bath tub silicone on mine.
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biosurfer1
post Oct 28 2009, 02:52 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Oct 28 2009, 12:24 PM) *

You could stuff all that money you "saved" by not buying one that didn't need repairs BEFORE you put it together into all the seams ..........................

The Cap'n



Well seeing the typical "high end" cabinet's were around $6-700, I'm pretty sure new seals wont cost $400, so I'll still be way ahead.
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HeloMech
post Oct 28 2009, 03:02 PM
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I just bought a cabinet from a guy on CL last night on the way home from work. Looks like the older brother to the one below. This pic shows two side doors, mine just has a door on the right side.

He gave me a 50# bucket of new media. It has a flourescent light built into it with a switch on the outside. Only thing I want to do to it is pull the window and reseal that, and about an inch of the left glove came unstitched from the arm. I'll stitch and seal that up as well.

Whole setup was $100 and it looks nearly as clean as this stock photo.

(IMG:http://www.kingcanada.com/Files/KSB350_HR_1169.jpg)
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 28 2009, 04:53 PM
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Nice! Keep in mind you need a big honkin' air compressor AND a huge tank to keep up with the demand for air.

The Cap'n
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HeloMech
post Oct 28 2009, 05:05 PM
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I'm running a 60 gallon upright on 220 with nice air flow ratings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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al weidman
post Oct 28 2009, 09:03 PM
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Brett, I have that unit also and do not have any leak problems. The only problem I had was that the supplied hose really sucked, by not sucking, I got some decent hose from Home Depot and it works but is stiff. I am going to try Gint's idea, it should help allot. Al.
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carr914
post Oct 28 2009, 10:40 PM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Oct 28 2009, 05:53 PM) *

Nice! Keep in mind you need a big honkin' air compressor AND a huge tank to keep up with the demand for air.

The Cap'n



QUOTE(HeloMech @ Oct 28 2009, 06:05 PM) *

I'm running a 60 gallon upright on 220 with nice air flow ratings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's what I'm running. A nice Blast Cabinet you don't use everyday, but when you need it, it's a blessing to have

T.C.
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Justinp71
post Oct 28 2009, 11:40 PM
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Use some old 914 rubber!


Well maybe that wont work, but I'm working on getting something we can put inside of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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736conver
post Oct 29 2009, 09:16 AM
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Mine leaked right away, brand new. I just duct taped all the edges.
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GaroldShaffer
post Oct 29 2009, 05:09 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
QUOTE(736conver @ Oct 29 2009, 07:16 AM) *

Mine leaked right away, brand new. I just duct taped all the edges.
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r_towle
post Oct 29 2009, 07:13 PM
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I use a broom once in a while.
It looks better than duct tape...

So it leaks...big deal.

Rich
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Cap'n Krusty
post Oct 29 2009, 07:52 PM
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Let's have a little glass bead tutoring session. Glass bead dust is mucho bad to inhale. Glass bead on the floor of your work area can get into EVERYTHING. Glass bead inside your engine is FATAL to that engine. Not only do you need to be extremely careful when you glass bead blast engine parts, you have to use the same level of care when working on your engine or gearbox anywhere near where the glass bead blasting cabinet is located. Like in the same room. Allowing the residue to accumulate on your floor (and everywhere else in the area, 'cause that's what it does, is not good, and sweeping it up with a broom or vacuum cleaner is just another way to propel it right into your work. BE CAREFUL!!!!!! Oh, and be sure you have a GOOD drier on your air supply.

The Cap'n
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