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> Newly Discovered Hell Hole Cancer
kenshapiro2002
post Oct 28 2009, 10:43 AM
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Well, the hole itself was repaired, but I was just able to excavate as seen below. Surrounding area is ice pick proof. What are the best "fixes" to be done while keeping the car together? It does not extend into the interior either and the side runners are very solid (had been replaced too).


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rjames
post Oct 28 2009, 11:43 AM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 09:43 AM) *

Well, the hole itself was repaired, but I was just able to excavate as seen below. Surrounding area is ice pick proof. What are the best "fixes" to be done while keeping the car together? It does not extend into the interior either and the side runners are very solid (had been replaced too).


Using a wirewheel or grinder, or whatever you weapon of choice is, take the areas down to bare metal and see what you have left to work with. Then fab replacement bits, weld 'em in and be done with it.


Additionally, how was the hell hole repiared? (post a pic or two) I would think that if someone went to the trouble of repairing the hell hole correctly, they would have repaired the spots in your photos as well.
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 28 2009, 11:45 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Use your ice pick to see what else may be lurking around there too. Hopefully, thats it.

If you can't get to it with a wire wheel, use Metal Ready or some other rust dissolver and soak the blind side as best you can to clear the rot.

Zach
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Sleepin
post Oct 28 2009, 11:49 AM
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I would check those fuel lines as well. You might consider finding a better filter.
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URY914
post Oct 28 2009, 11:56 AM
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QUOTE(Sleepin @ Oct 28 2009, 10:49 AM) *

I would check those fuel lines as well. You might consider finding a better filter.


Good point. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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SirAndy
post Oct 28 2009, 12:07 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 08:43 AM) *

Well, the hole itself was repaired, but ...

I told you so just doesn't cut it ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
That hell hole "fix" on the top just looked too suspicious.

Time to drop the engine and do it right! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

The good news is, all of the sheet-metal needed is available. How are your welding skills?
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jasons
post Oct 28 2009, 12:19 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 28 2009, 11:07 AM) *


Time to drop the engine and do it right! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Either leave it for the time being or drop the motor and do it right. I would bet there is more rust in there you can't access with the motor in. Also, I would investigate the PO's engine shelf repair you had in the other thread. I agree with Andy, its suspicious. I would be too scared to weld that close to an active fuel supply anyway.

In the 914 rustoration I'm working on, I've learned 1 thing.... Where there's smoke, there's fire.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 28 2009, 01:18 PM
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The hell hole was patched...not with correct sheet metal but simply cut and welded pieces (like no hole for the drain funnel, etc.) twenty years ago. It's stri=ong buut has some surface rust that I'll take care of
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QUOTE(rjames @ Oct 28 2009, 01:43 PM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 09:43 AM) *

Well, the hole itself was repaired, but I was just able to excavate as seen below. Surrounding area is ice pick proof. What are the best "fixes" to be done while keeping the car together? It does not extend into the interior either and the side runners are very solid (had been replaced too).


Using a wirewheel or grinder, or whatever you weapon of choice is, take the areas down to bare metal and see what you have left to work with. Then fab replacement bits, weld 'em in and be done with it.


Additionally, how was the hell hole repiared? (post a pic or two) I would think that if someone went to the trouble of repairing the hell hole correctly, they would have repaired the spots in your photos as well.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 28 2009, 01:20 PM
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Redoing fuel lines, pump (relocating to front), filter and doing SS line through tunnel. Should I do the welding when all the fuel lines are out for safety purposes or cana decent welder work around the fuel lines?


QUOTE(Sleepin @ Oct 28 2009, 01:49 PM) *

I would check those fuel lines as well. You might consider finding a better filter.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 28 2009, 01:21 PM
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I do not know how to weld. I guess I'll either take it somewhere or get one of those "welders on wheels" to come over.

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 28 2009, 02:07 PM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 08:43 AM) *

Well, the hole itself was repaired, but ...

I told you so just doesn't cut it ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
That hell hole "fix" on the top just looked too suspicious.

Time to drop the engine and do it right! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

The good news is, all of the sheet-metal needed is available. How are your welding skills?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 28 2009, 01:58 PM
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Guess what I mainly need is the right triangle that AA shows in their catalog for like $85. and a small patch on the forward hole?
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SirAndy
post Oct 28 2009, 02:13 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 11:58 AM) *

Guess what I mainly need is the right triangle that AA shows in their catalog for like $85. and a small patch on the forward hole?

No. That small triangle is not structural.


You have a huge gaping hole in your longitudinal. That is the backbone of your car!

Judging from your images, i bet if you move your passenger seat forward and look under the carpet behind the seat, you will find more rust where the floorpan meets the rear firewall and the side of the long.
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Cevan
post Oct 28 2009, 02:15 PM
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And use the proper FI clamps on the fuel hose, not those things in the picture.
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kenshapiro2002
post Oct 28 2009, 02:26 PM
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That would be #2 in my picture, right? Seems that #1 is normally a hole that got larger, right? When I remove my passenger seat there is no rust where the floor meets the firewall and the side of the long is solid. The PO replaced the longitudinals.


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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Oct 28 2009, 04:13 PM) *

QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 11:58 AM) *

Guess what I mainly need is the right triangle that AA shows in their catalog for like $85. and a small patch on the forward hole?

No. That small triangle is not structural.


You have a huge gaping hole in your longitudinal. That is the backbone of your car!

Judging from your images, i bet if you move your passenger seat forward and look under the carpet behind the seat, you will find more rust where the floorpan meets the rear firewall and the side of the long.
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SirAndy
post Oct 28 2009, 02:30 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 12:26 PM) *

The PO replaced the longitudinals.

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ghuff
post Oct 28 2009, 02:32 PM
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This is certainly not what I expected down here.
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Ken, time to start digging in more man..........


I have a MIG setup, that can do gas.


This is why i am thinking of drilling holes in the longs/caverns and using waxoyl on my car once it is complete, if the longs and etc were really replaced.
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SirAndy
post Oct 28 2009, 02:36 PM
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Just to be clear, i'm trying to help you here, not trying to bring you down.

I have seen this exact same cancer many, many times. I highly doubt we (you) have seen all of the rust there is.

At this point, i would not trust any of the PO's repairs.

Take off the rocker panels and carefully inspect the outer longs.
Poke the floor behind the seats. Don't just look at the painted tar paper. The rust will be underneath the tar.

Take off the PO's top hell hole cover to get a good look at the mess from above.

This is your chance to fix this right. Heck, you could even buy a welder and fix this yourself!
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cal44
post Oct 28 2009, 03:43 PM
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Matey.............has that car been down in Davey Jones locker? arrrrgg
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Drums66
post Oct 28 2009, 04:15 PM
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I know it's too late,but...you should'nt have picked it
the rust was holding hands, man!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

Don't lose it Ken, follow the advice (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Oct 28 2009, 04:49 PM
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Andy is probably right.

BUT

If you pull the rockers, be ready to find pristine outer longs. There are clamshell covers that have been for sale that could be put over bad rusty longs. Ideally, the rust is fixed before the clamshell is used. but that is not often the case.

I looked at a parts car in York that I could put my fist through the rust holes (in fact I did just that trying to talk the dealer down to proper parts car prices). But the longs looked pristine due to the new clamshells. On this car, you could actually see the rust going under the clamshell, but you had to lay down and know what to be looking for. dealer wanted solid driver money, so I walked.

Whatever you find is fixable. We are here to help. Some of us will even come over and help you fix it in person.

If you promise good beer, not cheep stuff. :-)
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