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> 1.7 D-Jet dies after warmup
kpfoten
post Nov 13 2009, 05:54 PM
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Yep--

I can understand! I thought I was in the ballpark but I was way of once I dialed in static timingf... At least static timing will get me with smooth throttle response--hopefully I can dial it in from here. I'm assuming it will be a small adjustment--very touchy? (Still recruiting somebody to help run the throttle while I adjust--I'm too clumsy to do both at the same time...
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kpfoten
post Nov 23 2009, 02:56 PM
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Update:

Timing set 3500RPMS, Dwell 48.6. Adjusted TPS per Pelican. Tested the wiring harness connector to ECU. Everything tests out except the CHT which after a brief time (less than 30s) of idling and then cool-off for 10 mins or so registers at 600 ohms. I am not sure if this is a product of the temperature of the block at the time? Air temp is about 45F.

I have good throttle response when I start the car when it is cold. It won't hold idle (if it does, it idles at around 400rpms but mostly dies).

Any suggestions?
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SirAndy
post Nov 23 2009, 03:55 PM
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QUOTE(kpfoten @ Nov 23 2009, 12:56 PM) *

Any suggestions?

CHT (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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kpfoten
post Nov 23 2009, 04:05 PM
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Hm. CHT is new--an 012.... I will throw a meter on it in a sec.
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kpfoten
post Nov 23 2009, 04:20 PM
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Air Temp: 44F 2400 Ohms. Engine cold.

Start car--beautiful throttle response, I let it run at about 3200 RPMS with my foot on the gas. 30 seconds later hesitation, poor throttle response although I can keep it going if I goose the throttle. It won't idle (Dies).

CHT at this point: 580 Ohms.

That's all I've got. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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SirAndy
post Nov 23 2009, 04:43 PM
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http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm


> 2K ohms at 68 deg. F for all but 1973 2.0 L
> 1.2 K ohms for 1973 2.0L


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy
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kpfoten
post Nov 23 2009, 04:58 PM
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If the 012 is 2850 ohms at 61F (according to the site), and 191.2 ohms at boiling, then I should pull the CHT and boil it and make sure it isn't stuck in the "open" position--which It could be, and causing a rich running condition and subsequent stalling?
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r_towle
post Nov 23 2009, 06:08 PM
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In an earlier post you stated that when hot it was at 750 ohms...
that be broken.

Its a cheap part to replace...get a new one...make sure you get the one that matches the ECU..

Rich
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kpfoten
post Nov 23 2009, 07:45 PM
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Thanks Rich, yeah, it seems to be running in the 550-750 range when I've been running the engine for a few minutes. I'm not sure how long it takes for those heads to heat up nice and hot, but it seems to me that the CHT should be giving a lower reading...

Frustrating when you buy something and it's no good...
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r_towle
post Nov 23 2009, 07:52 PM
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you could try something cheap.
go to Banders site and find out the EXACT reading your supposed to be getting.

Go to radio shack and buy a resistor the exact number for when its hot.
Hook that up to the wire that goes to the CHT and the other end to ground.
See if it runs right...
Or you can use a variable POT, but a simple resistor would work.
Its cheap..a few bucks.

Rich
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kpfoten
post Nov 23 2009, 10:08 PM
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Great--do you run it in-line with the wire to the CHT? (one end from the harness and the other to the CHT?)

Thanks!
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SirAndy
post Nov 23 2009, 10:38 PM
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QUOTE(kpfoten @ Nov 23 2009, 08:08 PM) *

Great--do you run it in-line with the wire to the CHT? (one end from the harness and the other to the CHT?)

No. You take out the CHT and run the resistor instead of the CHT.

From the brain to your resistor to ground. No CHT.
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kpfoten
post Nov 24 2009, 05:31 PM
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What kind of wattage should I get? I was at Radio Shaft and realized they have a selection... They wanted to sell me a 1/2 watter...

K
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r_towle
post Nov 24 2009, 05:35 PM
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read brad anders site.
Find the correct reading for your CHT when hot...if its 190 ohms...find that number...

Get a resistor that is the correct OHMS...not watts.

Rich
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kpfoten
post Nov 24 2009, 06:12 PM
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Yeah, I got the correct ohm value.

The resistors are also rated in watts (10, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8).
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SirAndy
post Nov 24 2009, 06:16 PM
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QUOTE(kpfoten @ Nov 24 2009, 04:12 PM) *

Yeah, I got the correct ohm value.

The resistors are also rated in watts (10, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8).

I don't think there's a lot of current flowing through that wire, so the wattage really shouldn't matter much ...

If the resistor melts, get one with a higher wattage reading ...
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r_towle
post Nov 24 2009, 06:17 PM
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QUOTE(kpfoten @ Nov 24 2009, 07:12 PM) *

Yeah, I got the correct ohm value.

The resistors are also rated in watts (10, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8).

As watts is a measurement of power and Ohms is a measurement of resistance, I am not sure I can help you attempt to convert them.

If I go to MY radioshack...there is a drawer of RESISTORS...they are measured in ohms at my store.

Rich
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SirAndy
post Nov 24 2009, 06:21 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Nov 24 2009, 04:17 PM) *

As watts is a measurement of power and Ohms is a measurement of resistance, I am not sure I can help you attempt to convert them.

Wattage is Volts x Amps ...

I can't imagine a lot of Amps going through that wire. So really, the wattage of the resistor shouldn't matter ...
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kpfoten
post Nov 24 2009, 07:33 PM
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I hadn't done that math in awhile... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Rich--look in the drawer of resistors next time you're in the 'Shaft. They're labled for ohms, but they also have a watt rating--strange but true. The guy working there was of little help.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2062315

Anders' site says the resistance can drop to as low as 50 ohms as read by the ECU (I think). I may go get a smaller one tomorrow and give it a whirl.

Not an issue if I melt one--they're like $0.21/piece...
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