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> Ohio transmission clinic Jan 16-17 in Jamestown, OH, Its not too late to sign up :)
bigkensteele
post Jan 18 2010, 10:25 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 18 2010, 08:04 PM) *

I am still recovering. I left OH at 10pm and arrived home at about 4:45am. Now I get to do all my homework for the week (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I am so grateful for the chance to meet you all and for the hospitality of the Pokrandt family (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Good people, and good eats.

I would also like to thank Andrew and Bradley for hosting us. The food and company was fantastic. It really was a great time, and nice to put a face to some of the names I have seen.

Thanks to Doc and Rich for the expertise and guidance.

Doc, might I suggest that you try soy milk for a few days prior to your next clinic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Jan 18 2010, 10:30 PM
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Its Bradlie (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Bradley is a dudes name (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
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bigkensteele
post Jan 18 2010, 10:38 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 18 2010, 08:30 PM) *

Its Bradlie (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) Bradley is a dudes name (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

My apologies, Bradlie! Thanks for putting up with us. Hopefully, the carb cleaner will mask any other odors that were left behind by one of the two doctors in attendance....
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Dr Evil
post Jan 18 2010, 10:40 PM
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Dude, they fed me chili. It is not my fault (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad2.gif)
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Katmanken
post Jan 18 2010, 11:28 PM
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Thanks for having us Andrew! Food was great!

Had a great time, met some interesting people, got buzzed on carb cleaner, and for the first time in my life, smelled methane and blueberries together.....

Quite a hardcore bunch. We talked surgery while eating and no one hurled....

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surfbus66
post Jan 19 2010, 05:37 AM
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We both had a great time this weekend. I would highly recommend Dr.'s Clinic. It was good meeting everyone. Thank You Andrew for letting us use your place. You have a wonderful family.
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Katmanken
post Jan 19 2010, 06:54 PM
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evil,

Here are a few shots of the proximal end of the shafts with the rear cover removed.

Ken


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Katmanken
post Jan 19 2010, 07:01 PM
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Mo Mo Mo tranny parts to show....

Ken


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Katmanken
post Jan 19 2010, 07:02 PM
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Shifty.....

last one....

Ken


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Dr Evil
post Jan 19 2010, 07:23 PM
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Um ya, pic one of post 148, what the hell is that under 1st gear? (the small gear). It looks like ya'll installed the bearing race upside down. Gonna have to remove that.
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Dr Evil
post Jan 19 2010, 07:30 PM
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WTF is this???


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Dr Evil
post Jan 19 2010, 07:39 PM
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Or, is that just oil filling in the gap between the 1st gear shoulder and flat part of the race? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I can not be sure until it is cleaned (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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bigkensteele
post Jan 19 2010, 07:49 PM
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Looks like an upside down race to me, now that I am a transmission expert (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) Otherwise, wouldn't the gear sit flush against the flat part of the race, and there would be no gap for oil? Then again, that doesn't really look worn like the business end of the race would?

Unless the mere thought of chili affects you in that way, I am calling BS (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Jan 19 2010, 07:55 PM
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Nope, the gear has a shoulder on it that is supposed to go towards the race in order to space the gear correctly. If is were installed upside down then it would be flush and jammed. The more I look at it the more I think it is gear oil in the groove.

Looking at the pics, I dont see where there would be binding as all of the trouble spots are correct and Ken says it does not bind out of the case. Fun fun (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Jan 19 2010, 07:58 PM
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I am pretty sure that is oil looking at one of the other pics I can see reflection from the race inside the bearing.
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Katmanken
post Jan 19 2010, 08:50 PM
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It's the spacer sholder on the small gear. It's shown in the factory manual and the Haynes manual.

It spaces the small first gear away from the intermediate plate so that it is at the same height (away from the intermediate plate) as the large first gear. Yup, there is some oil and a bearing race under it.

Evil, you did install the spacer and bearing on the intermediate plate, and then popped the cone on before the double reverse gear fell out.

The diff is the correct one as the spare is still bolted in the spare tranny case and never came out.

Tomorrow I will investigate the differential and see if it is a seal or something binding.

You know I sneak up on things cautiously. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Ask Richard. When the small first gear was installed, I carefully torqued the castle nut down to a point where it just touched the race on the intermediate plate bearing, and looked at the castle nut slot. Richard didn't know of a torque so I looked at the slots in the castle nut and the hole in the threaded portion of the drive shaft. It needed a small amount of additonal rotation to align the closest slot with the hole, and that put the radiius in the bottom of the slot in the castellated nut slot exactly in alignment with the hole. Then I pounded the pin into the hole and nut.

It felt like when you tighten front wheel bearings on a Beetle, rotate the nut to touch the inner race and a little bit more to be exactly right. Too tight, and you will soon need a new bearing. Too loose, and the car wanders aroud the road.

I checked for bearing play and it wasn't too tight or too loose so we went with that.
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Dr Evil
post Jan 19 2010, 11:25 PM
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The castellated nut most likely needs to be tightened. Not sure if that is part of your issue, but it needs to be tqed. I need to look up the tq. I'll post it here.
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Dr Evil
post Jan 20 2010, 12:00 AM
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Great, my CD Rom is not accessing my manuals (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I'll try my desk top in the AM.
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Katmanken
post Jan 20 2010, 12:59 PM
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And my factory manuals say......

Drive shaft castle nut....... 65-80 Ft lbs.....

And to think I removed two of those things with a little wussy ratcheting socket wrench..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

UGH, Me not Ken, Me Mongo,

Wonder if the torque range is a typo like the 80 Ft-lbs holding on the axle flanges?

A loose nut WOULD affect the stack length. and might contribute to the problem... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (don't even think of going there Evil one)

Hmmm. I could shove the splined end of the shaft into the engine that came out of the rusty car. The clutch disk would fit the shaft splines exactly, and the engine would provide much resistance to the torquing. Heck, the PO said it wouldn't turn over after he put the engine in the car.

Problem solved- I can torque the castellated nut without boogering the shaft!

But is the torque value a typo?




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Dr Evil
post Jan 20 2010, 01:12 PM
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Nope. Start at 65 and then align it up to 80 so that you can install the pin. The vice grip in the bench vice holding the drive shaft trick would work as well to hold it. I knew it was 80, but did not know where to start ( I never need to because I am that good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) ).

Maybe you should have used a bigger hammer Ken (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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