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> Secret on getting CV loose, What is it?
damnfiknow
post Nov 17 2009, 09:15 PM
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After using impact wrench to get the peskie bolts loose, I can't get the CV to turn loose of the wheel hub. "Gentle" tap on the ones at the transmission did the trick there. But can not get an good angle on the outboard ones. HELP
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GeorgeRud
post Nov 17 2009, 09:23 PM
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If it's an option for you, why don't you simply remove the large nut that holds the stub axle on and remove the entire assembly. You can then easily work on the halfshaft on the bench.

Just don't roll the car around with the stub axle removed, you'll probably ruin the bearing.
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mtndawg
post Nov 17 2009, 09:34 PM
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I just did this recently. It took an impact wrench to get the castle nut free. My half shaft was in tight and didn't want to tap through so I put the nut back on with a new cotter pin and called it good. The half shaft could press through with a gear puller and liquid wrench, but that could damage the wheel bearing. Long story short...if that outer boots are in good shape, don't worry about changing them. The inner boots are pretty easy.
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detoxcowboy
post Nov 17 2009, 09:40 PM
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I had same exact issue, befuddled and gave up for the day, next day i just got int the best position I could on my back and yanked a couples times then rotated (the axel via the tire) an 1/8 turn and yanked more, just kept rotating and yanking just when I was done and felt I was a jerking fool... trying.... It yanked right off. Same thing other side just took alot of yanking and rotating, I am a novice and I got it in a long 40 minutes... "YANK & ROTATE" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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damnfiknow
post Nov 17 2009, 09:57 PM
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QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Nov 17 2009, 09:40 PM) *

I had same exact issue, befuddled and gave up for the day, next day i just got int the best position I could on my back and yanked a couples times then rotated (the axel via the tire) an 1/8 turn and yanked more, just kept rotating and yanking just when I was done and felt I was a jerking fool... trying.... It yanked right off. Same thing other side just took alot of yanking and rotating, I am a novice and I got it in a long 40 minutes... "YANK & ROTATE" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

Looking at the book, it appears that the castellated nut is the only thing holding drive shaft in. I'm going to remove it and try a gentle tap. If it goes, I'll push it on through. If it is stuck I'll go for the "yank & rotate". I'm stuck with needing to get the shafts off as I want to flat tow the vehicle to a welding shop and then body shop before reinstalling the engine/transmission. Don't have this problem with the good old rear engined bay windows I have.
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detoxcowboy
post Nov 17 2009, 10:07 PM
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QUOTE(damnfiknow @ Nov 17 2009, 07:57 PM) *

QUOTE(detoxcowboy @ Nov 17 2009, 09:40 PM) *

I had same exact issue, befuddled and gave up for the day, next day i just got int the best position I could on my back and yanked a couples times then rotated (the axel via the tire) an 1/8 turn and yanked more, just kept rotating and yanking just when I was done and felt I was a jerking fool... trying.... It yanked right off. Same thing other side just took alot of yanking and rotating, I am a novice and I got it in a long 40 minutes... "YANK & ROTATE" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)

Looking at the book, it appears that the castellated nut is the only thing holding drive shaft in. I'm going to remove it and try a gentle tap. If it goes, I'll push it on through. If it is stuck I'll go for the "yank & rotate". I'm stuck with needing to get the shafts off as I want to flat tow the vehicle to a welding shop and then body shop before reinstalling the engine/transmission. Don't have this problem with the good old rear engined bay windows I have.


good luck getting those nuts off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I ha (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) e read (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) eads of guys using a 5 ft. fence pole for leverage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) and still could'nt break them loose. Anyways I feel for you that was a frustrating morning but heart prevailed over lack of experience ...the 914
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Spoke
post Nov 18 2009, 06:51 AM
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If you tap the castle nut, put a piece of hardwood in between your hammer and the nut to spare the nut or threads from mushrooming.

The ideal way to get the outboard CV out is to remove the brake caliper and rotor and castle nut and put a gear puller on it. It should back right out.
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type47
post Nov 18 2009, 07:24 AM
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Probably, the 2 roll pins are holding the CV in. I would guess that the outer CV's are not removed as much and the pins "rust in" the flange and that's what's making it so hard to remove.
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gklinger
post Nov 18 2009, 08:10 AM
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If you flat tow it with the stub axles out you will destroy the wheel bearings.
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