HELP. trouble starting 72 1.7L Options

[r_towle]

tank isnt clean but its not that rusty and there is new fuel in it.

more instructions testing the pump would be great

and of course i hooked the lines up!!! lol they have been fine for the last like five days idk whats wrong with the fuel pump but shes coming off tonight

Ok,
What is your fuel delivery system?
Do you have carbs or fuel injection?

If you have fuel injection, which style do you have? Djet or Ljet.

All three fuel delivery systems have different methods for testing the fuel pump that are simple.

see why it will be alot easier if we know what you running?
If you dont know, post a pic (see why I asked) and we can tell you what you have.

Rich

[forzamotorsport9]

tank isnt clean but its not that rusty and there is new fuel in it.

more instructions testing the pump would be great

and of course i hooked the lines up!!! lol they have been fine for the last like five days idk whats wrong with the fuel pump but shes coming off tonight

Ok,
What is your fuel delivery system?
Do you have carbs or fuel injection?

If you have fuel injection, which style do you have? Djet or Ljet.

All three fuel delivery systems have different methods for testing the fuel pump that are simple.


see why it will be alot easier if we know what you running?
If you dont know, post a pic (see why I asked) and we can tell you what you have.

Rich

ill wait for you to some over, but i only have two jackstands so if you have two more to bring over it would prob work better for jacking up the rear. accessing the fuel pump is a pita w/ the stock jack and a jack stand...

and its injected, im 99% sure i have DJet, its a 1.7L and im pretty sure it has DJet, i havent even heard of LJet, was that on the 1.8Ls? anyway hopefully some of this crap will get figured out tonight

and im a bit damned as to why its STILL dripping fuel from the fuel pump area (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[silverteener]

So I went over to Will's house tonight and he does have a nice looking car for the most part. It is a d-jet. The ecu is just sitting in the engine bay so it will need to be mounted. He is missing the bar that goes thru it. The ground for the battery is connected to the engine because the bolt on the sheetmetal is mostly broken off. I hadn't seen that before so I thought that was kind of interesting. The fuel pump is not working. I didn't have my multimeter to see if it was getting power so Will was going to pick one up and check it out. If there is power at the pump then I would think the pump is bad. It looks like the pump was also leaking. I have another pump to try if there is power there. Will also said he was going to take the tank out and have it cleaned and coated. There was some crap in there so I suggested he refresh the rest of the fuel lines. Any luck we'll have it going in no time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[914_teener]

So I went over to Will's house tonight and he does have a nice looking car for the most part. It is a d-jet. The ecu is just sitting in the engine bay so it will need to be mounted. He is missing the bar that goes thru it. The ground for the battery is connected to the engine because the bolt on the sheetmetal is mostly broken off. I hadn't seen that before so I thought that was kind of interesting. The fuel pump is not working. I didn't have my multimeter to see if it was getting power so Will was going to pick one up and check it out. If there is power at the pump then I would think the pump is bad. It looks like the pump was also leaking. I have another pump to try if there is power there. Will also said he was going to take the tank out and have it cleaned and coated. There was some crap in there so I suggested he refresh the rest of the fuel lines. Any luck we'll have it going in no time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Sounds like he's in better hands now. Gotta have the multimeter if you have a teener.
Knew something was up when I saw no ECU behind the battery.

Good luck.

[r_towle]

good luck

[forzamotorsport9]

going to check out if the fuel pump is bad tonight, purchased my multimeter and am ready to get the thing running. hopefully soon. i also posted a WTB for a fuel pump since i have a sneaking suspicsion it had gone to crap.

also, i have a shout out to scott for all his help, id be wandering in circles without your help man (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[forzamotorsport9]

alright, im pulling the fuel pump out today and replacing all of the other fuel lines in the engine bay. im ordering a fuel pump today off another member, and ordering plugs, distributor cap, and a new fuel sock. i do know know where to purchase the sock from, any help would be greatly appreciated.

im going to check when i get home to see if there is any power at the fuel pump too, it doesnt even click as is.

im not entirely sure how to use my multimeter, it comes with a 12V thingy too.

i wanna get this baby running!

[kenshapiro2002]

If you're replacing the sock (bought one from AA a few weeks ago) that means you're pulling the tank. I am going through all of this at the same time you are. If you have the tank out you might as well replace the lines in the tunnel, and off the tank, as well as the ones in the engine bay. Why not? It's like pulling up your carpet to replace it and not repairing that squeaky or rotten sub floor below it while you have the carpet out. The pump is better up front, but not required. If you move it up there you need some form of access (see my recent thread with pictures as to how I did that). Other than running a power wire up there for it, it's no more difficult than hooking it up where it is now.

I'm gonna feel much better rolling down the road knowing all of my fuel carryig plumbing is new as opposed to half new and half 40 freakin' years old! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

alright, im pulling the fuel pump out today and replacing all of the other fuel lines in the engine bay. im ordering a fuel pump today off another member, and ordering plugs, distributor cap, and a new fuel sock. i do know know where to purchase the sock from, any help would be greatly appreciated.

im going to check when i get home to see if there is any power at the fuel pump too, it doesnt even click as is.

im not entirely sure how to use my multimeter, it comes with a 12V thingy too.

i wanna get this baby running!

[kenshapiro2002]

P.S. BRG 914s are the best.

[kenshapiro2002]

BTW...BRG = Bavarian racing Green

P.S. BRG 914s are the best.

[silverteener]

Will,

Let me know if you are going to do some work tonight. I can stop by. I need to get my books anyway and I can show you how to use your multimeter. You can get your plugs, cap, rotor etc at Foreign Car Parts here locally. You will need to order the sock. I ordered mine from AA and paid more for shipping than the part. And thats the last time I did business with them!

[kenshapiro2002]

Hope that wasn't your reason. Placing a small order like that will always result in the shipping being more than the part. In fact, when I placed an order a few eeks ago, the amount came to something like $18, and the person told me they didn;t want to ship anything less than $25 and "forced" me to increase my order. I took an oil filter at his suggestion.

Will,

Let me know if you are going to do some work tonight. I can stop by. I need to get my books anyway and I can show you how to use your multimeter. You can get your plugs, cap, rotor etc at Foreign Car Parts here locally. You will need to order the sock. I ordered mine from AA and paid more for shipping than the part. And thats the last time I did business with them!

[silverteener]

Nope,

the fact that I was quoted a price for shipping when I ordered it, then get the bill for more. I wasn't told to order more til I emailed George about the mistake and that's what he suggested. To me, if I'm quoted a price I should get it, if they messed up that should be on them. I think I got a refund of like 35 cents. There a other sources out there that value their customers. And we had just ordered pretty much everything from them for an engine rebuild, spent a lot of money, and he knew that. But like I said there are plenty of other sources if you look hard enough (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Anyways, I think there are some VW suppliers that have that sock. I think....

[kenshapiro2002]

I sent an e-mail to AA a fw weeks ago, asking if they had any fuel pump access panles for a 75/76 car. I never got an answer. A few days later I got a package at my door with one inside and a bill for $85 freakin' dollars. The $25 pr order blackmail came after that.

[silverteener]

now thats customer service (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[silverteener]

it sounds like there is no power at the pump. time to do some tracing. any suggestions (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[r_towle]

I got lost.
Shapiro...lets help this guy on this thread.

Relay board fuse and relay in engine bay.
Check for power at the fuses on the board...
Then if that checks out, see if the headlights go up.
If they do, go take one of the headlight relays and replace the fuel pump relay with a KNOWN working relay.

Rich

[silverteener]

I just got back from Wills house and we tried a couple things. I took my good relay board out of my car and put it in his. we also hooked up a good fuel pump but there is still no power at the pump. So to me the issue would not be in the relay board right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I still need to do some more research. what do you guys think..

thanks

[r_towle]

Alright.
Look at the positive terminal of the battery.
How many wires are attached?

Get a meter on the fat RED wires going TO the ignition switch inside the
car. I get to these at the front of the tunnel or near the shifter.

What you want to see is two things.
You want to find the RED wire that has power with no key in the ignition.
You want to find the RED wire that has power with the key in the RUN position...basically going back to the relay board.

Use sewing pins and stick them right through the middle of the red wires...then test for 12vdc on each wire till you find it. They are the larger diameter wires...they are the only ones.

If this is positive, you now need to find the RED wire in the tunnel that has power once the key is turned on to the run position.
Use the same process, but this wire will only have power when key is in the run position. This RED wire leads to the relay board.

There is also a YELLOW wire that is the trigger for the starter. While your there, test it.
It will only have power with the key in the start position.


Its kinda stupid, but power goes from the battery, to the ignition switch, then back the the relay board...its a long way.

If this test fails, you need a new ignition switch.


If the test passes, go to the relay board, and find that RED wire and test for power again at the relay board to verify its still getting there.

If you have power at the relay board, its either the relay board or the wiring to the pump...or the pump..or the fuel injection relay.

This is all assuming that you have checked ALL the fuses with a meter, not just visually.
Make sure they all pass power from one side to the other...not just ohm, but 12VDC on each side.

[markb]

Maybe next time you'll call us & not be pressured into buying what you don't need.

Hope that wasn't your reason. Placing a small order like that will always result in the shipping being more than the part. In fact, when I placed an order a few eeks ago, the amount came to something like $18, and the person told me they didn;t want to ship anything less than $25 and "forced" me to increase my order. I took an oil filter at his suggestion.

Will,

Let me know if you are going to do some work tonight. I can stop by. I need to get my books anyway and I can show you how to use your multimeter. You can get your plugs, cap, rotor etc at Foreign Car Parts here locally. You will need to order the sock. I ordered mine from AA and paid more for shipping than the part. And thats the last time I did business with them!