Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

2 Pages V  1 2 >  
 Reply to this topicStart new topic
> what oil pump would you use
wayne1234
post Nov 20 2009, 12:53 AM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 260
Joined: 6-April 09
From: indianapolis in
Member No.: 10,238
Region Association: None
Well I'm going to order some parts today to put the engine back together, I basically have a stock 2.0 with a mild cam, and carbs, nothing special, should I just get a new factory oil pump or something else, I'M not gonna race it or any thing crazy, so Im thinking a stock setup would be fine where is the best place to get one? or am I crazy not to get "Blank set up" . Thanks and again recommend a vendor.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
sww914
post Nov 20 2009, 01:03 AM
Post #2


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,439
Joined: 4-June 06
Member No.: 6,146
Region Association: None
My experience with the aftermarket oil pumps is that their internal machining leaves a lot to be desired. I use the best used pump that I can scavenge out of my piles of parts. If it's in the budget I go for new OEM.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
type47
post Nov 20 2009, 06:44 AM
Post #3


Viermeister
****

Group: Members
Posts: 4,254
Joined: 7-August 03
From: Vienna, VA
Member No.: 994
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
QUOTE(sww914 @ Nov 19 2009, 11:03 PM) *

I use the best used pump that I can scavenge out of my piles of parts.


How do you test the pump to see if it's still usable? (I have some used pumps that I'd like to know if they're still good)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jmill
post Nov 20 2009, 07:53 AM
Post #4


Green Hornet
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,449
Joined: 9-May 08
From: Racine, Wisconsin
Member No.: 9,038
Region Association: Upper MidWest
There was a big thread about this. I believe that you should talk with Jake. IIRC he recommends a modified T1 pump. Call him.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
tat2dphreak
post Nov 20 2009, 08:11 AM
Post #5


stoya, stoya, stoya
*****

Group: Benefactors
Posts: 8,797
Joined: 6-June 03
From: Wylie, TX
Member No.: 792
Region Association: Southwest Region
I used a shadak 30mm pump. jake said the shadak's are not as consistent as they used to be, though.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mark Henry
post Nov 20 2009, 08:40 AM
Post #6


that's what I do!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,065
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Port Hope, Ontario
Member No.: 26
Region Association: Canada
Small engine so a shadak 26mm pump is all you need. Shadek's quallity issues are nothing new, Gene Berg was O-ringing the pumps long before Gene died in '96. this O-ring is done very similar to the o-ring on the T4 pump.
If the pump drops in it's no good, should have a hair of a press fit.

One part of the "bag of tricks" that many builders don't like to tell you.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
wayne1234
post Nov 20 2009, 11:57 AM
Post #7


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 260
Joined: 6-April 09
From: indianapolis in
Member No.: 10,238
Region Association: None
how do you know if they are any good? someone said mine looke funny?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ME733
post Nov 20 2009, 04:55 PM
Post #8


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 842
Joined: 25-June 08
From: Atlanta Ga.
Member No.: 9,209
Region Association: South East States
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) I have used MELLING oil pumps with great success., The housing is cast iron and will maintain the center to center distances of the pump gears much better than aluminum. The port openings into and out of the pump can be blended with porting tools, opened and smoothed with great success. The gears are extremely interferance press fit, so the "spinning shaft "problem does not exist.(never heard of one doing this)...the back housing, against the cam gear, is solid...no extra nuts... to assemble housing ...in the way..(or to screw with) SOME people will disagree, because the OIL PUMP housing is cast IRON, and the Engine BLOCK install area is ALUMINUM. Maybe it will be 190 /220 degrees. the expansion differences (if much)(at all).and the worry factor ?...Can be ELIMINATED by Radusing the inner /outer mating surfaces at the crankcase and installing a ..O..ring...at the pickup tube entry. now you got two seals, the oem one and the one you will creatate. Big deal. the oil pump is a critical component of the engine , and should be cleaned, inspected, assembled, "feel Tested" for binding and smoothness of rotation. I'm talking about "BLUEPRINTING " the damn pump guys. Its worth the extra trouble to know your oil pump is going to work properly perfectly. And...MELLING has more experience, and manufactures more oil pumps than all the rest of the "trick "oil pump companies combined and has been doing so for Years. :the end. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Drums66
post Nov 21 2009, 04:01 PM
Post #9


914 Rudiments
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 5,321
Joined: 15-January 03
From: Coronado,Cali
Member No.: 151
Region Association: Southwest Region
QUOTE(ME733 @ Nov 20 2009, 02:55 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) I have used MELLING oil pumps with great success., The housing is cast iron and will maintain the center to center distances of the pump gears much better than aluminum. The port openings into and out of the pump can be blended with porting tools, opened and smoothed with great success. The gears are extremely interferance press fit, so the "spinning shaft "problem does not exist.(never heard of one doing this)...the back housing, against the cam gear, is solid...no extra nuts... to assemble housing ...in the way..(or to screw with) SOME people will disagree, because the OIL PUMP housing is cast IRON, and the Engine BLOCK install area is ALUMINUM. Maybe it will be 190 /220 degrees. the expansion differences (if much)(at all).and the worry factor ?...Can be ELIMINATED by Radusing the inner /outer mating surfaces at the crankcase and installing a ..O..ring...at the pickup tube entry. now you got two seals, the oem one and the one you will creatate. Big deal. the oil pump is a critical component of the engine , and should be cleaned, inspected, assembled, "feel Tested" for binding and smoothness of rotation. I'm talking about "BLUEPRINTING " the damn pump guys. Its worth the extra trouble to know your oil pump is going to work properly perfectly. And...MELLING has more experience, and manufactures more oil pumps than all the rest of the "trick "oil pump companies combined and has been doing so for Years. :the end. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

I like them!....using them for decades,no adverse effects yet!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jake Raby
post Nov 21 2009, 04:41 PM
Post #10


Engine Surgeon
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,398
Joined: 31-August 03
From: Lost
Member No.: 1,095
Region Association: South East States
I'll post some pics of a Melling pump on Monday...
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
StratPlayer
post Nov 22 2009, 03:14 PM
Post #11


StratPlayer
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,342
Joined: 27-December 02
From: SLC, Utah
Member No.: 27
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
I'm running a melling in my new engine build. Works just fine
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Cap'n Krusty
post Nov 22 2009, 04:12 PM
Post #12


Cap'n Krusty
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 10,794
Joined: 24-June 04
From: Santa Maria, CA
Member No.: 2,246
Region Association: Central California
And, besides all those features, you get, free of charge, LEAKS!

I use nothing but stock pumps on stockish engines. In fact, you're generally safe cleaning, insoecting, sealing, and reusing your old one.

BTW, I have a nearly new Melling pump for sale. Cheap.

The Cap'n
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jake Raby
post Nov 22 2009, 06:12 PM
Post #13


Engine Surgeon
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,398
Joined: 31-August 03
From: Lost
Member No.: 1,095
Region Association: South East States
In testing now.. Available in both + and - .002 sizes to accommodate the differences in pump bore IDs that we are beginning to see as the engines exceed or approach 4 decades of use.

Thats solid billet, much tighter gear/ body clearances than anything else.

Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
StratPlayer
post Nov 22 2009, 07:50 PM
Post #14


StratPlayer
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,342
Joined: 27-December 02
From: SLC, Utah
Member No.: 27
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
The melling that I have on my engine has no leaks what so ever.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jake Raby
post Nov 22 2009, 09:07 PM
Post #15


Engine Surgeon
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,398
Joined: 31-August 03
From: Lost
Member No.: 1,095
Region Association: South East States
QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Nov 22 2009, 06:50 PM) *

The melling that I have on my engine has no leaks what so ever.


That you can see... They leak internally when they don't leak externally. Its usually because they aren't round.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jake Raby
post Nov 23 2009, 09:33 AM
Post #16


Engine Surgeon
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,398
Joined: 31-August 03
From: Lost
Member No.: 1,095
Region Association: South East States
Attached Image

Here is your modern day Melling pump.

This one failed a short time ago upon start up in a test engine on the dyno. I was quick on the switch and the engine wasn't compromised, but I was very lucky.

The oil pump drive isn't centered in the body of the pump with this unit so it snapped off the drive tang. Thats a fault I had never seen or heard of prior to this, now I inspect every pump for it no matter who made it.

Components are constantly changing. What worked 35 years ago or just last month doesn't mean a damn thing. We see this more and more with the AFU Economy as companies are cutting corners to stay alive and sending out JUNK in some instances.

Nothing ever stays the same- become set in your ways and you will get bitten in the ass. Constant awareness is key.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
craig downs
post Nov 24 2009, 12:56 AM
Post #17


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 769
Joined: 25-November 05
From: mira loma ca.
Member No.: 5,189
Region Association: Southern California
I was using a Schadek oil pump and got scared of the low pressure at idle when the oil got warm. So while I'm waiting for Jake to release his oil pump I replaced the Schadek with a new Melling oil pump i got back from the early 80s. The oil pressure is a little bit better by about 5 lbs. with the Melling. At least the oil light doesn't threaten come on anymore.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Jake Raby
post Nov 24 2009, 09:16 AM
Post #18


Engine Surgeon
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 9,398
Joined: 31-August 03
From: Lost
Member No.: 1,095
Region Association: South East States
Here is another...

Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ME733
post Nov 24 2009, 10:46 AM
Post #19


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 842
Joined: 25-June 08
From: Atlanta Ga.
Member No.: 9,209
Region Association: South East States
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) ....Very Intresting...I wonder what caused the drive tang , where It broke off, to TURN BLUE......on both of them. Seems like with the offset that bad , the oil pump drive tang simply would not align with the camshafts internal indent, and insert into the cam, and may have been driven by the camgear bolts, which were hammering on the drive tang, causing the heat indicator (blueing) and ultimate breakage, (snapped it off). I wonder if that pump was actually for a 914 or something else. Any identifible part number?. This should be a good example of the fact that all parts should be checked before using them., especially If the oil pump drive and "idler" gears are not centered / centerlined, with the camshaft/ center of crankcase, and centerlined in the pump housing you have a defectively manufactured pump or one for some other application. Thanks Jake for the photographs and information. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
StratPlayer
post Nov 24 2009, 10:52 AM
Post #20


StratPlayer
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,342
Joined: 27-December 02
From: SLC, Utah
Member No.: 27
Region Association: Rocky Mountains
How many out there are running melling pumps and have had the problems that jake described. Curious.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
« Next Oldest · 914World Garage · Next Newest »
 

2 Pages V  1 2 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 

Display Mode: Standard · Switch to: Linear+ · Switch to: Outline

Track this topic · Email this topic · Print this topic · Subscribe to this forum

- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 28th November 2025 - 12:11 PM
Invision Power Board v9.1.4 © 2025  IPS, Inc.
...
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community!
We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ...