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> Late Model Access Panel For Fuel Pump Installed, Pictures of where I placed a late model panel in my 1970
kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 07:39 PM
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Thought I'd throw up six shots (in three posts) of where, and how, I installed the fuel access panel form a late model (75/76) into the firewall between the front trunk and the fuel tank recess, in my 1970 914.
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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 07:40 PM
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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 07:42 PM
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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 07:43 PM
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Prime and paint the edges and holes that you cut.
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tod914
post Nov 28 2009, 07:44 PM
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Very nice and professionally done Ken. Think you'll start a new trend now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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VaccaRabite
post Nov 28 2009, 08:15 PM
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Awesome. make sure you round off the metal you just cut with a grinder or a file. You don't want to slice a finger or fuel line on a sharp jaggie.

Zach
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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 08:47 PM
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Used a file on the edges right away. May even glues some caps or pieces of plastic tubing over the backs of the screw holes so the protruding sheet metal screws can't touch the fuel lines either.Really shouldn't be a problem, but may just do it to be extra careful.

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 28 2009, 09:15 PM) *

Awesome. make sure you round off the metal you just cut with a grinder or a file. You don't want to slice a finger or fuel line on a sharp jaggie.

Zach
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tod914
post Nov 28 2009, 09:13 PM
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Ken how about JB welding on some nuts on the back wall so you don't need the sheet metal screws? Think that would work?
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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 10:13 PM
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Sounds good to me. You like JB better than epoxy?

QUOTE(tod914 @ Nov 28 2009, 10:13 PM) *

Ken how about JB welding on some nuts on the back wall so you don't need the sheet metal screws? Think that would work?
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VaccaRabite
post Nov 28 2009, 10:20 PM
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Why?

Sheet metal screws work like a champ in this application, and have for 30+ years. And JB might not hold when torqued and vibrated against constantly.

K.I.S.S.

Zach
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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 28 2009, 10:25 PM
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Zach...I'd trust you 100% if it weren't for the ends of the mustache turning up like that..that Snidely Whiplash thing. If I promise to stay with the sheet metal screws will you promise not to tie my car to the railroad tracks?

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 28 2009, 11:20 PM) *

Why?

Sheet metal screws work like a champ in this application, and have for 30+ years. And JB might not hold when torqued and vibrated against constantly.

K.I.S.S.

Zach
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MrKona
post Nov 28 2009, 10:32 PM
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Consider Rivet nuts. You've already got the hole locations started, you could make them big enough to install the rivets. Then you could use machine screws to attach the mount to the firewall. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/white914.jpg)


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jmill
post Nov 28 2009, 10:33 PM
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I'd go with a nut clip. Cheap and easy without the sharp point next to your fuel line. You don't need the nut cert (riv-nuts) tool either. I've had them spin on me.


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kenshapiro2002
post Nov 29 2009, 06:09 AM
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Yeah...maybe...
QUOTE(jmill @ Nov 28 2009, 11:33 PM) *

I'd go with a nut clip. Cheap and easy without the sharp point next to your fuel line. You don't need the nut cert (riv-nuts) tool either. I've had them spin on me.
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JFJ914
post Nov 29 2009, 01:07 PM
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The factory used sheet metal screws. Why get fancy?
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Drums66
post Nov 29 2009, 01:19 PM
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QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Nov 28 2009, 08:25 PM) *

Zach...I'd trust you 100% if it weren't for the ends of the mustache turning up like that..that Snidely Whiplash thing.

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 28 2009, 11:20 PM) *

Why.

K.I.S.S.

Zach




(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Maybe a rubber moulding edge around the access door?
other than that tip, looks great!! (good humor man) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


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IronHillRestorations
post Nov 30 2009, 12:00 PM
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A couple things that have helped me with sheet metal screws.

When re-installing a sheet metal screw, put the tip in the hole and press down lightly, the turn counter clockwise until you feel it click, then turn clockwise. This lines up the threads so you don't cut new ones.

I was working on a customer's car and showed him this tip. He sells medical hardware for bone implants and joint repair and said this is exactly the same thing they teach the Dr's to align the threads on the bone hardware.

The other thing I've done is tap the sheet metal by drilling the hole 1/8" smaller than needed, and then bugle the hole with a tapered punch to the correct size needed for the tap, using the correct size drill bit (for the tap) as a guide.
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kenshapiro2002
post Dec 4 2009, 09:42 AM
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Ok...I coated the bottom of the whole fuel tank well with POR15. I sued rubber grommets to "cushion" where the new fuel line exited as well as where the hot wire for the fuel pump exits the old return line hole.
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kenshapiro2002
post Dec 11 2009, 12:12 PM
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kenshapiro2002
post Dec 11 2009, 12:13 PM
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