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> God its cold...I need a heater
quadracerx
post Dec 10 2009, 08:19 PM
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Ok....so headlights work, tailights, marker lights and dashlights all now working....moving to the heater fan(s) neither the dash or blower fan in the engine bay are working? Is there a relay or fuse related to this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Also....where exactly is the emergency flasher relay located? Do I have to remove the fuse panel under the dash to get to it?

Thanks so much....just trying to stay warm and get everything completely road worthy...this is fun...but this car hasent seen the road in more than a decade so Im trying to fix everything I can...before a real road trip of more than a mile and back....

Thanks again...this is the best board ive had the privilage of being a member of....

Steve
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detoxcowboy
post Dec 10 2009, 08:26 PM
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Check all the fuses in the fuse box under dash good measure anyuways.. The rear engine fan for heat assist fuse is inside your relay board and is Blue 25 amp that is in the same as your fuel pump (they are on same fuse.) Make sure your flapper boxes are opening as they allow heat in and even without fan some heat will come in slow. There is wiring diagrams at pelican parts..
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r_towle
post Dec 10 2009, 08:37 PM
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Heater fan on the back is a grounded switch.
the switch is next to the shifter inside the car.
Pull the switch out...it has the flapper box cables on it also...so you need to remove the cables at the flappers.
You can pull the switch up enough to clean it...its dirty, trust me.

Rich
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davesprinkle
post Dec 10 2009, 09:19 PM
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The 914 heater system really puts out the heat when it's working properly. A few things to check:
1. The fan isn't terribly important. Its only function is to keep a little heat moving into the cabin when engine speed is low, like when the car is idling. It's nice to have it working, but not essential.
2. Those little aluminum rectangular hinged doors on the fan housing act as check-valves for airflow, basically preventing the blower motor from sending air into the fan housing. Make sure they're installed, or your blower motor will have dramatically reduced efficiency.
3. As mentioned by detox, make sure your flapper-boxes work and that the actuation cables function properly.
4. Verify that the heater tubing is OK. AA sells replacements.
5. The stock heater works best with a fuel injected engine. If you have carbs, you likely also have more oil vapor in your engine compartment which will get sucked into the heating system. Disagreeable to the ladies.
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SGB
post Dec 10 2009, 09:49 PM
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QUOTE(davesprinkle @ Dec 10 2009, 09:19 PM) *

... oil vapor in your engine compartment which will get sucked into the heating system. Disagreeable to the ladies.

It is an aroma one grows to associate with 914s. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) I kinda like it, but it's no perfume.
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quadracerx
post Dec 10 2009, 10:56 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Dec 10 2009, 06:37 PM) *

Heater fan on the back is a grounded switch.
the switch is next to the shifter inside the car.
Pull the switch out...it has the flapper box cables on it also...so you need to remove the cables at the flappers.
You can pull the switch up enough to clean it...its dirty, trust me.

Rich


Ok so upon further inspection of the relay board I think Im missing a fuse....I see the blue 25 Amp fuse it looks good and the fuel pump works...but there is no fuse next to it? also missing something that goes in the lower right hand corner towards the back of the car? (just a series of pins nothing else)

ANYONE have a relay board drawing showing what goes where on a 75-76? I did a search but cant find an actual drawing showing the relay board and what goes where and does what....also searched the Pelican...and NADA?

God this is getting fun....already cleaned the lever and cable area on the tunnel...

Also the linkage for the headlights popped off again? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
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r_towle
post Dec 10 2009, 11:41 PM
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fuse for the heater fan and fuel pump are the same.
Second fuse is for the rear window defogger (I think)

The extra relay is also optional....its not used.
Run a positive and negative jumper lead from the battery to the fan.
Brown is ground.
Do the fan work?

For the linkage, you may need new bushings for the headlights.
Do a search here, someone made a run of replacement bushings for the headlights....properly assembled they last a long time.

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jt914-6
post Dec 11 2009, 07:26 AM
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Maybe this will help...? Is the relay for the blower motor missing? If not, it may not be working. Swap it with the fuel pump relay and see if the fan blows then.....

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quadracerx
post Dec 13 2009, 05:08 PM
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QUOTE(jt914-6 @ Dec 11 2009, 05:26 AM) *

Maybe this will help...? Is the relay for the blower motor missing? If not, it may not be working. Swap it with the fuel pump relay and see if the fan blows then.....

Attached Image


Got to check things out some more today....

The relay swap didnt do anything, hot wiring the rear blower direct to battery...the blower runs...YAY....so that tells me theres something in the wiring....Its too cold to remove the lever and clean it today....SNOW... but thats next...

Additional (hopefully not related) problem, flasher fuse blows on fuse box (I think thats the 2nd from the right, white fuse?), when you replace it the flashers work and the console lights stay on full time key on or off... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

Dangit...Im gonna keep at this until I get it...and again thanks for your help you guys....

Steve
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Spoke
post Dec 13 2009, 06:16 PM
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A common fault with the lever is the mechanical movement of the lever also provides electrical contact for the relay. Sometimes even if connected, the lever might not make contact.

As a test, you can bypass the lever by taking the wire on the lever and touching it to a clean chassis point to test if the fan runs.

I had a devil of a time getting my lever to make good ground contact. Had to take it apart several times and clean it til I finally got good conduction and the fan would work.
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