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> Braking Issue! Pedal to the Floor, But solid on pumps!, No Breaks on this project,
wallys914
post Dec 12 2009, 08:40 PM
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So I have completely upgraded the brake system of my 72 914, 911 front suspension and brakes, SS Brake lines, 19MM MC, New Pads and a T line replacement for the rear, and while pumping the brakes, 10 pumps, brake pedal holds solid, 10 seconds of letting it sit, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. 10 Pumps solid and holds again.... I have done a regular pump 10 times and bleed, about 10 times on each corner, and I have done the 20ft 1/4 line run from each bleeder to the resevior trick (Awesome BTW!), But there is still no solid first pump pedal...

Any Ideas? before I sell the whole car for a Miata! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)
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Spoke
post Dec 12 2009, 08:52 PM
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If the components of the system are new or like new, there is some air trapped somewhere.

I've bled the fronts by myself by opening up the bleeder with a hose firmly attached and just pumped a bunch of times, then closed the bleeder.

I would say keep bleeding.
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URY914
post Dec 12 2009, 08:59 PM
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Unless you see a leak somewhere, it's just air in the system.
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john rogers
post Dec 12 2009, 10:32 PM
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What is the free play between the cylinder and push rod? If there is none then the piston will not return all the way back and you'll never get a good bleed. When using the pump and bleed it takes two to do it correctly. One to pump (only 2 or 3 pumps) until the pedal goes solid, the other opens the bleeder valve until the pumper hollers the pedal went to the floor. Immediately close the valve snugly. I would never recirc the fluid back into the resevoir since you can get dirt, water and who knows what else into the system. Unless all your new components were flushed to grade A type cleanliness, part of the fluid's job is to clean things out.

A couple final thoughts, try to rotate the wheel hub once the brakes get pumped solid and see how tight the hub is. I use a huge combo wrench with a couple of wheel bolts installed and if the hub turns then the pistons have not moved their seals out yet and as soon as pressure comes off the system the piston will back out too far for really good brake use. Also are the bleeder valves on top? Don't laugh, I have seen several cars that had the calipers on the wrong side due to very late night work.

The last one is to buy a pressure bleeder and it will solve all of these issues.
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detoxcowboy
post Dec 13 2009, 11:59 AM
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I had the same problem before and the solution was to re-bleed correctly. Dual Bleeders Bleed in the correct order or 72 has singles? I also found that I jacked up each corner independently as I bleed that corner and that help the air rise out and up from the new parts.. Also I found speed bleeders to be awesome as they do not let air back in and you can bleed by yourself in 20 min. even with the dual bleeders..
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messix
post Dec 13 2009, 12:02 PM
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air in the master . need to bench bleed it.
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